Drawers and Guides

Tulmaster · Post by **Tulmaster** » Wed Nov 21, 2012 9:33 pm

Seems no matter how many I do I always have problems with the fit of my drawers to the guides.

I usually do faceless frames and 100 lb full extension guides. The guides always slide freely by themselves but when I get the drawer attached it always binds up to one extent or another. I don't know if I am making the drawer to wide or to narrow (I suspect to wide) but not sure how to go about measuring for a proper fit with an easy in and out of the drawer from the start. It should not be this hard so I feel i am not doing something right from the start. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Wed Nov 21, 2012 10:25 pm

I would certainly not claim to be an expert and have had my own issues with drawer construction. The first time I used the measurement suggested on guides. Then ended up with drawer and frame requiring shims to work together. The second time I used a caliper and created my own measurements. I end up with a perfect fit with all but one drawer in the center. From this I learned that braces in in between each drawer worked well. The third cabinet I discovered a need to use extra care in squaring drawers during gluing. Funny I never noticed that before. The greatest issue I have experienced building cabinets with drawers is getting the guides level. Jim

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Wed Nov 21, 2012 10:56 pm

In typical drawer construction the drawer should be one inch narrower than the opening. The guides are typically one half inch wide. BE CAREFUL some manufacturers vary. Check the instructions (for the guides) and have the guides on hand before building the drawers.
Bill V

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Wed Nov 21, 2012 11:21 pm

I have very limited experience building drawers, and the 2 I have built slid on wood runners. But assuming everything is square, and the clearance is right, perhaps the slides are not quite coplanar with each other?

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:42 am

tulmaster wrote:Seems no matter how many I do I always have problems with the fit of my drawers to the guides.

I usually do faceless frames and 100 lb full extension guides. The guides always slide freely by themselves but when I get the drawer attached it always binds up to one extent or another. I don't know if I am making the drawer to wide or to narrow (I suspect to wide) but not sure how to go about measuring for a proper fit with an easy in and out of the drawer from the start. It should not be this hard so I feel i am not doing something right from the start. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have a hunch that one of the plastic drawer jigs from Rockler would help you drawer problems.

Tulmaster · Post by **Tulmaster** » Fri Nov 23, 2012 5:07 pm

Hey thanks for all the tips. trying to respond to those who have offered suggestions. Yes the typical with of the drawer is 1" narrower, but this is carpentry and not fine machinery, there should be some amount of play to be expected and designed into the guides. I also found that running the sides of the drawer through the table saw after assembly will take out any slight bow that might be in the board. So I know the drawers are square and true. True and level installation of the guides is no trick as it is easy to build a "T" support that is square and will hold the entire slide while it is screwed down.

I am finding that the resistance in the slide when the drawer is first installed seems to be less as you put more weight in the drawer so I am not sure that is the design and I am not aware of it or due to something else?

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 11:41 am

Tulmaster, you have little to no leeway in sizing the drawers to width. If the manufacturer calls for allowing 1" total (1/2" on each side of the drawers), you'd better make them that way if you want a smooth action. If you allow less room, the drawer will bind. If you allow too much room, the drawer will wander and possibly jam or fall off the track.

One thing you can do with drawers that are too narrow is to add shims behind the slide half that attaches to the cabinet, or you could even add shims between the slide and the drawer itself. But if you want the drawers to act as they should, you need to follow the manufacturers instructions.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:19 pm

pennview wrote:Tulmaster, you have little to no leeway in sizing the drawers to width. If the manufacturer calls for allowing 1" total (1/2" on each side of the drawers), you'd better make them that way if you want a smooth action. If you allow less room, the drawer will bind. If you allow too much room, the drawer will wander and possibly jam or fall off the track.

One thing you can do with drawers that are too narrow is to add shims behind the slide half that attaches to the cabinet, or you could even add shims between the slide and the drawer itself. But if you want the drawers to act as they should, you need to follow the manufacturers instructions.

Excellent points. On the one occasion I made a drawer too narrow I inserted small mashers between the glide and the cabinet. They have been working well for several years. Jim