Can the SS Shaper make door & floor trim?
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Can the SS Shaper make door & floor trim?
We just remodeled our house and I've got to install trim all over the place (~2700SF of house), around the floors, doors, etc.. I was planning on buying the stuff from a local lumberyard that specializes in mouldings and would likely be using non-paint grade material so that it could be stained. To that end, I had the thought pop in my head (care of an SS email I just got) that perhaps with the shaper, I could make my own floor/door trim.. Is this a realistic endeavor or should I just leave a task like this to a more capable group of individuals....?
Rick
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
In my opinion, it depends on the thickness of the wood you would be trying to use on the shaper. I used to use the shapper to make cope and stick for raised panel doors on oak in one pass for many years. One of the demonstrators at the Phila. store showed my how and we made jigs just for that purpose. We also dressed the steel bits after each pass. If you are talking about mouldings 2" in thickness I would think the molder would be a better choice. I made chair rail moldings using my overarm router with good results but I used thicker boards, carbide bits, and then cut to the thickness desired.
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In most cases it pays to see what you can get the molding you want form a store. By "it pays" I mean it is cheaper.
I know some of you will say otherwise but I have seen this same question come up many times and many places and so far everytime it ends up with the store being the cheaper route.
Having said that, and believing it to be true I still make moldings for my house and for certain projects. However they are all things that I can't purchase. I design them and look for ways to buy them... perhaps by stacking or resawing parts... if that is a no go then I do my own. Exception are special woods which you can't get molding in and and well a few more reasons.
Ed
I know some of you will say otherwise but I have seen this same question come up many times and many places and so far everytime it ends up with the store being the cheaper route.
Having said that, and believing it to be true I still make moldings for my house and for certain projects. However they are all things that I can't purchase. I design them and look for ways to buy them... perhaps by stacking or resawing parts... if that is a no go then I do my own. Exception are special woods which you can't get molding in and and well a few more reasons.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I really hate to point you in a direction away from a shaper, but in this case I will. I own quite a few shaper bits (SS) and use them for things like picture frames and panel frames. None of the shaper bits available at Shopsmith will do floor and/or door casing (moulding) without really inventive stacking - a lot of time. The bits just aren't tall enough.osx-addict wrote:We just remodeled our house and I've got to install trim all over the place (~2700SF of house), around the floors, doors, etc.. I was planning on buying the stuff from a local lumberyard that specializes in mouldings and would likely be using non-paint grade material so that it could be stained. To that end, I had the thought pop in my head (care of an SS email I just got) that perhaps with the shaper, I could make my own floor/door trim.. Is this a realistic endeavor or should I just leave a task like this to a more capable group of individuals....?
In your case, I suggest router bits, designed for that purpose. I think if you search the web for casing bits, you will find what you are looking for. Here's a start: http://www.woodline.com/c-63-case-moulding.aspx
In my case, when building a piece that needs moulding, I will make it. If I wanted to have moulding/casing in my house that is not painted, I would be very tempted to make it. But to me, furniture is one thing and house casing is will be store bought and painted.
Maybe doing one room with stained oak casing - our den - might be a good thing. Darn it! Now you have gone and given me an idea for another project:eek: I'm too old for this!:(
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Chuck et-al..
Thanks for the info.. I'm not sure if I'm looking for a big project in the back of my head, it was more a thing I figured I'd inquire about.. Shoot.. I may opt to put paint grade stuff in most of the house once I see the cost of the high end stuff.. Anyway, I figured I'd do my due diligence and ask.. No harm in that -- didn't cost much I guess..
Thanks for the info.. I'm not sure if I'm looking for a big project in the back of my head, it was more a thing I figured I'd inquire about.. Shoot.. I may opt to put paint grade stuff in most of the house once I see the cost of the high end stuff.. Anyway, I figured I'd do my due diligence and ask.. No harm in that -- didn't cost much I guess..

Rick
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
- Ed in Tampa
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I tend to agree with Reible here, if your going to use pine or common moulding wood it will probably be cheaper to buy it.
That said if your thinking of using oak, maple, cherry or a wood like that then it may be cheaper to do it yourself.
My mill has a $40 setup/knife charge before they cut an inch of wood. Then they charge for the wood and for the milling. If I have to buy the bit myself then it becomes a toss up which is cheaper. Howeve if I have the knife with the profile I'm looking for then usually I can buy the wood and mill it myself and save a little.
Ed
That said if your thinking of using oak, maple, cherry or a wood like that then it may be cheaper to do it yourself.
My mill has a $40 setup/knife charge before they cut an inch of wood. Then they charge for the wood and for the milling. If I have to buy the bit myself then it becomes a toss up which is cheaper. Howeve if I have the knife with the profile I'm looking for then usually I can buy the wood and mill it myself and save a little.
Ed