Stuck drive sleeve assembly

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rdavidp
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Stuck drive sleeve: Just needed a bigger hammer

Post by rdavidp »

My drive sleeve assembly is stuck in the head stock. I was assembling the headstock with out the belts just because it was the first time assembling the headstock. I now need to take the drive sleeve assembly out, and it is stuck. The ring spring has been removed, so that is not the problem. When I first disassembled the headstock, I remeber the drive sleeve assembly pulling right out of the headstock. When I put the drive sleeve in, it was a very tight fit. I was thinking maybe a thick wood dowel and wooden mallet to knock it out of the headstock. Any other ideas? I had removed all of the dust, dirt, and grim and polished the metal that the bearings fit in during disassembly. I tried to view the Sawdust Session 23 video of drive train disassembly, but for some reason the video is coming up as not available. I wanted to make sure I was taking the drive sleeve out the right way. The sleeve is supposed to pull right out of the headstock, and to put it back in you push it in from the front with the ribbed portion that fits into the quill going in first.
charlese
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Post by charlese »

If the ring has been removed, to only thing I can think of making it stuck is the assembly has jammed at a slight angle. Wiggling the assembly and a plastic or rubber mallet tapping on the Axillary spindle ought to do the trick.

Maybe someone else has a better answer.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

rdavidp wrote:My drive sleeve assembly is stuck in the head stock. I was assembling the headstock with out the belts just because it was the first time assembling the headstock. I now need to take the drive sleeve assembly out, and it is stuck. The ring spring has been removed, so that is not the problem. When I first disassembled the headstock, I remeber the drive sleeve assembly pulling right out of the headstock. When I put the drive sleeve in, it was a very tight fit. I was thinking maybe a thick wood dowel and wooden mallet to knock it out of the headstock. Any other ideas? I had removed all of the dust, dirt, and grim and polished the metal that the bearings fit in during disassembly. I tried to view the Sawdust Session 23 video of drive train disassembly, but for some reason the video is coming up as not available. I wanted to make sure I was taking the drive sleeve out the right way. The sleeve is supposed to pull right out of the headstock, and to put it back in you push it in from the front with the ribbed portion that fits into the quill going in first.
A gentle tapping using the dowel should not hurt anything. If the quill is mounted, you can also use it to push out the drive sleeve.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
griffmeister
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Post by griffmeister »

SDSSmith wrote:A gentle tapping using the dowel should not hurt anything. If the quill is mounted, you can also use it to push out the drive sleeve.
You might try warming the outside of the headstock with a hairdryer or other hot air blower to expand the bore. This might relieve things if the bearing race is "cocked" in the bore.
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

rdavidp wrote:My drive sleeve assembly is stuck in the head stock. I was assembling the headstock with out the belts just because it was the first time assembling the headstock. I now need to take the drive sleeve assembly out, and it is stuck. The ring spring has been removed, so that is not the problem. When I first disassembled the headstock, I remeber the drive sleeve assembly pulling right out of the headstock. When I put the drive sleeve in, it was a very tight fit. I was thinking maybe a thick wood dowel and wooden mallet to knock it out of the headstock. Any other ideas? I had removed all of the dust, dirt, and grim and polished the metal that the bearings fit in during disassembly. I tried to view the Sawdust Session 23 video of drive train disassembly, but for some reason the video is coming up as not available. I wanted to make sure I was taking the drive sleeve out the right way. The sleeve is supposed to pull right out of the headstock, and to put it back in you push it in from the front with the ribbed portion that fits into the quill going in first.
Shopsmith used tigher headstock tolerances in the 50s & 60s. I have a 18" long 1/2" rebar rod that I grinded the tips off so it will fit inside the quill end of all the drive sleeves. Sometimes, I need a 4 pd hammer and really hit the rod to drive the drive sheave from the housing using the rebar rod. The inner bearing will sometimes hang and stay in the back housing hole as the drive sleeve is tapped out of the housing and can be tapped out later. Since you are trashing the old bearings, I care less about damaging the old bearings. I use an early 510 floating table rail to press/drive the new bearings on the drive sleeve shaft. Be careful as you can displace the lock ring on either side of the pulley. I use an abrashive pad or very fine sandpaper to really clean up the bearing and tube holes in the headstock. I have never cracked or broke the bearing housings in the headstock when driving the drive sleeve from the housing. I did have to trash a few headstocks that one of the drive sleeve bearings froze and spun in the housing. No way to save that housing.
Good Luck.
Bill Mayo
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
rdavidp
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Post by rdavidp »

billmayo wrote: Since you are trashing the old bearings, I care less about damaging the old bearings. I use an early 510 floating table rail to press/drive the new bearings on the drive sleeve shaft. Be careful as you can displace the lock ring on either side of the pulley. I use an abrashive pad or very fine sandpaper to really clean up the bearing and tube holes in the headstock. I have never cracked or broke the bearing housings in the headstock when driving the drive sleeve from the housing. I did have to trash a few headstocks that one of the drive sleeve bearings froze and spun in the housing. No way to save that housing.
Good Luck.
Bill Mayo
I was not really planning on replacing bearings as these still seem to be ok. If the bearings end up getting trashed where can I get new ones and which bearings do I get?
rdavidp
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Post by rdavidp »

GOT IT!!!!! :D

The problem was I needed a bigger hammer. I went to Home Depot and bought a 45oz red polyurethane coated hammer and a 1 1/4" oak dowel rod. A couple of whacks and out it came. Bearings still seem to be intact and all that good stuff. I resanded the housing in the headstock that the bearings fit into first with some steel wool, then scotch brite bit, 600 grit sandpaper, and then 2000 grit sandpaper. Nice and smooth. Touched up the bearing wheels with 2000 grit sandpaper. Well re-assemble headstock again a little later today.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

rdavidp wrote:GOT IT!!!!! :D

The problem was I needed a bigger hammer. I went to Home Depot and bought a 45oz red polyurethane coated hammer and a 1 1/4" oak dowel rod. A couple of whacks and out it came. Bearings still seem to be intact and all that good stuff. I resanded the housing in the headstock that the bearings fit into first with some steel wool, then scotch brite bit, 600 grit sandpaper, and then 2000 grit sandpaper. Nice and smooth. Touched up the bearing wheels with 2000 grit sandpaper. Well re-assemble headstock again a little later today.

Make sure the headstock bore and the bearings outer surfaces are squeaky clean. A LIGHT coat of JPW(polished) will help.

Main thing is to NOT FORCE anything. GENTLE tapping ok. but apply it to the outer race(ring) of the bearing(good if outer bearing 'stuck') and the end of the shaft(good if inner bearing stuck).

I recommend removal, cleaning and reinstallation of the inner retaining ring/groove before reinsertion of the bearings
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
rdavidp
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Post by rdavidp »

There seems to be a problem with removing the inner retaining ring. Ever since I had the Shopsmith, the white nylon doo-hickey that the quill spindle fits into on the drive sleeve will not come off. Is it supposed to come off? That part is also very stuck.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

rdavidp wrote:There seems to be a problem with removing the inner retaining ring. Ever since I had the Shopsmith, the white nylon doo-hickey that the quill spindle fits into on the drive sleeve will not come off. Is it supposed to come off? That part is also very stuck.

Yes. Easy-no! Very stiff ring spring seated in a groove on the shaft splines.

Pry off with godzilla's screwdriver.

Parts in hand would I think make removal extremely difficult.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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