Setting saw blade the same distance from miter slot

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 7:21 pm

[quote="foxtrapper"]OK, that's good for ensuring the relationship between the table and headstock stays uniform, but since the quill can still be moved, the saw blade isn't consistent. The quill will always be in the same position since it should always be fully retracted initially and locked when sawing.

I made the jump that you'd made up a simple jig that fits into the table groove, always centering the blade in the table at the same spot. Which seems like darn usefull jig. So, congratulations to you for coming up with the notion! ]
I still like my split 2" pvc pipe stopper. It is removable also.

There be many paths to the same destination.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:24 am

Do we all realize that if the rubber bumper is used (or any other spacer of the correct size) and the quill is completely withdrawn when the table is lowered, the saw blade should come up through the insert on its exact center line.

Of course the blade must be mounted on a proper arbor and the arbor installed properly and the table adjusted per the approved procedure.

If you want to check your machines' alignment, just cut a new zci and measure it. Is the new kerf right on the center line.

http://shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=10868&highlight=ZCI

http://shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=10305&highlight=Main+Table+Alignment

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:27 am

I know, done this way you should be centered. But I've found it to a more a roughly centered than a precisely or consistently centered. And sometimes I don't retract the quill. And then there is the thickness variance between the different blades.

It all screws up the ability to use the tape marks on the table with consistency, let alone accuracy. Cobbing up a simple jig to space the saw tooth edge exactly the same distance from the edge of the slot would go a long way to helping ensure repeatability and consistency in my cuts.

It's enough for me to want to remove the stuff I've got piled up on my Shopsmith and cob up this little jig to try out.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:44 am

foxtrapper wrote:I know, done this way you should be centered. But I've found it to a more a roughly centered than a precisely or consistently centered. And sometimes I don't retract the quill. And then there is the thickness variance between the different blades.

It all screws up the ability to use the tape marks on the table with consistency, let alone accuracy. Cobbing up a simple jig to space the saw tooth edge exactly the same distance from the edge of the slot would go a long way to helping ensure repeatability and consistency in my cuts.

It's enough for me to want to remove the stuff I've got piled up on my Shopsmith and cob up this little jig to try out.

I use the jig discussed in the second link on a fairly regular basis.

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:27 am

dusty wrote:I use the jig discussed in the second link on a fairly regular basis.

That's what I was thinking of. Guess I should have looked at your links.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:51 am

foxtrapper wrote:That's what I was thinking of. Guess I should have looked at your links.

If you are going to make one of these, pay particular attention to table tilt. There should be NONE. That is to say, blade to table must be exactly 90° +- 0°.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:02 pm

Getting back to the top post;

I see how the 'firmer' wood block is not only a replacement for the 'missing' original rubber stop.

I also see the possibility of having different blocks for different blade thicknesses.

Sometimes we get off track of the initial intent.

Truth be told, your solution tis far more elegant than my own pipe cutting!

Also we tend to mostly use out 'favorite' blade and not change often.

The quill advancement makes little sense to me unless a 'common' position is almost permanent. Retraction makes more sense to me.

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Tue Dec 25, 2012 4:48 pm

robinson46176 wrote:... It could be made narrower and faced with firm rubber if you wanted some give under impact..

Or, version 3: for impact protection, leave the rubber band where it is and put the (excellent) wood clamp on the rear tube. Remove it (so easy with that clamp thingie!) after the blade et al are locked down.

Verson 4: I'm gonna copy F's Stop for the front and leave the rubber band on the rear tube (I currently have one on each).

[I've been laying a purpose-cut slat on the ways to do the job of F's stop, and it does the ZCI etc, positioning just fine. The Stop'll be that much better.]