Warped Board Question

db5 · Post by **db5** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 8:32 pm

I'm repairing and refinnishing a bench thrown away by neighbors who were cleaning out their attic. It is about 75 years old and made of pine. A board that is a cross-piece is warped. The internet searches I have done all have suggestions that will probably curl the wood but not straighten it.

Can this be fixed. If not I will have to drill one new hole for the dowel on one side so that the bench will sit evenly.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:32 pm

db5 wrote:I'm repairing and refinnishing a bench thrown away by neighbors who were cleaning out their attic. It is about 75 years old and made of pine. A board that is a cross-piece is warped. The internet searches I have done all have suggestions that will probably curl the wood but not straighten it.

Can this be fixed. If not I will have to drill one new hole for the dowel on one side so that the bench will sit evenly.

Considered just replacing it?

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 1:43 am

yes, db, most warped boards are milled to become straight. From the looks of that board, a hand plane would be used to cut down the high side, then jointed to flatten. Needless to say, that won't work for you. Replacement would be your best bet.

Often times woodworking magazines talk about straightening warped boards, but what they are really meaning is methods of cutting away the warped part.

If you could be successful in wetting (soaking) the board, twisting it to straighten, then drying. This operation would not only take months (mostly drying), but my bet is the board would again find it's old warped shape.

db5 · Post by **db5** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:12 am

Thank you both for confirming something I didn't want to hear.

Since I want to keep this original I think I'll just cut off one of the dowels and glue/screw it back together with the brace twisted somewhat. It's only purpose is support and will probably not be noticeable except to the discerning eye; since no one on this forum will ever see it that means no discerning eyes will see it.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:23 am

[quote="db5"]Thank you both for confirming something I didn't want to hear.

Since I want to keep this original I think I'll just cut off one of the dowels and glue/screw it back together with the brace twisted somewhat. It's only purpose is support and will probably not be noticeable except to the discerning eye]

When you "force it" back in position and have finished gluing and screwing it there - don't be surprised when the misfit shows up elsewhere.

dforeman · Post by **dforeman** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:28 pm

I seem to remember an episode on the New Yankee workshop where Norm Abram straitened old warped furniture boards. But, I don't remember his exact process. It is Just a thought on something you could possibly look into. However, I'm not even sure if it will work for your application or not.

db5 · Post by **db5** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 8:28 pm

dusty wrote:When you "force it" back in position and have finished gluing and screwing it there - don't be surprised when the misfit shows up elsewhere.

I'm not going to force it back into position because then the bench won't sit level. The warp will be transferred to one corner and that will be elevated about 3/8 inch above the floor. The only easy solution is to cut off one of the dowels and then put it back together with the warp as it is and level the bench. That way there will be no stress on it and it should be fixed; not perfect nor even good but good enough.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:05 pm

[quote="db5"]I'm not going to force it back into position because then the bench won't sit level. The warp will be transferred to one corner and that will be elevated about 3/8 inch above the floor. The only easy solution is to cut off one of the dowels and then put it back together with the warp as it is and level the bench. That way there will be no stress on it and it should be fixed]

Cut away the 'top' third on one dowel and the 'bottom' third on the other. Reshape the remaining part of the dowels to fit the holes.

db5 · Post by **db5** » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:09 am

Great suggestion.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:33 am

I am assuming that the warped piece is a cross member that spans either two legs or two vertical sides.

If I had the problem, I would replace the warped member. You have indicated that that is not an acceptable coarse of action.

With that in mind, I would then plug the existing holes and then drill new holes to fit the warped piece.