Main Table Location In Drill Press Mode

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 11:15 am

I will really not be surprised at all if this holds true for all 505/510 and 520 configurations.

I am not quite as confident on the 500s because of the single trunnion configuration and because I have NO working experience with a 500.

algale · Post by **algale** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 12:10 pm

dusty wrote:I was going to hold off on declaring how good the numbers were but decided to reveal them now.

Using the dial indicator, the outfeed side of the blade was +.002" with respect to a measurement at the same location on the infeed side. This is better than it was before this exercise.

The answer to my opening question is YES, the Way Tubes are equal distant from the miter slot when the table is at 90° to the tubes.

That is quite an impressive result for such a low tech approach. You may have just invented a new and better way to align the main table, congrats!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:09 pm

algale wrote:That is quite an impressive result for such a low tech approach. You may have just invented a new and better way to align the main table, congrats!

Not so quick. That is only one machine.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:47 pm

What if you cut a piece to fit the miter slot and then cut a piece of something stable like the baltic birch plywood etc. and mounted it to the piece in the slot so that the left edge stuck a bit past the left table edge. Then you could mount a sanding disk, turn it on and sand that left edge of it by sliding the piece back and forth in the slot. It wouldn't matter if the table was exactly square to the disk yet as the sliding it back and forth would make it even all along the edge and the exact same width (from edge to miter slot) at the front as the back. Then swing the table to 90 degrees and move it to touch the way tubes and set the table. The premise being that it would eliminate any possible problems from a rough or out of line table edge.
If one were to try just sanding a rough table edge it might not come out exactly parallel to the miter slot because you can't slide the table against the running disk.

.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 2:11 pm

robinson46176 wrote:What if you cut a piece to fit the miter slot and then cut a piece of something stable like the baltic birch plywood etc. and mounted it to the piece in the slot so that the left edge stuck a bit past the left table edge. Then you could mount a sanding disk, turn it on and sand that left edge of it by sliding the piece back and forth in the slot. It wouldn't matter if the table was exactly square to the disk yet as the sliding it back and forth would make it even all along the edge and the exact same width (from edge to miter slot) at the front as the back. Then swing the table to 90 degrees and move it to touch the way tubes and set the table. The premise being that it would eliminate any possible problems from a rough or out of line table edge.
If one were to try just sanding a rough table edge it might not come out exactly parallel to the miter slot because you can't slide the table against the running disk.

.

Using the conical disk and the rip fence as a guide, I have "milled" a the edges of a couple of my floating tables smooth in a manner very similar to what you describe.

You also make a good point regarding the miter track. It is straight and smooth and could be used as the reference surface if the table edge is too rough.

But, this discussion could be premature. We'll not know that this works unless a few people can confirm favorable results.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 3:50 pm

dusty wrote:We'll not know that this works unless a few people can confirm favorable results.

With a big enough hammer you can get favorable results out of about anything.

.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:25 am

This is NOT a step backwards just a step back to the beginning.

I have been fussing with other ways to align my Mark V tables to the blade and have come up with a couple different methods that work quite well.

Keep in mind that I do this procedure with the self imposed criteria that the blade must be parallel to the miter slot to within .005". I don't think that this number is used anywhere by Shopsmith but it works well for me.

My most recent method is discussed earlier in this thread and I might add that I have now used this method on both of my Mark Vs with near equal degrees of success.

Others have indicated a preference for other methods, like the dial indicator and I agree. But I decided to take this exercise one Giant Step Back to the Beginning.

When I first got my Mark V I was taught how to do this alignment using the Miter Gauge and a long rod. Most all of you have probably seen this done or even do it now yourselves. I am here now to tell you that that method is every bit as good as using the dial gauge.

I decided today to "check my work". I did this using feeler gauges, the rod and the miter gauge. I'll not discontinue using the dial indicator but it certainly is not a requirement.

[ATTACH]19316[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]19317[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]19318[/ATTACH]

I cannot insert the feeler gauge on one side and can feel the feeler gauge drag as I pull it through on the other side. I would say that I am within .003".

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 4:11 pm

dusty wrote:...
Using the dial indicator, the outfeed side of the blade was +.002" with respect to a measurement at the same location on the infeed side. This is better than it was before this exercise.

The answer to my opening question is YES, the Way Tubes are equal distant from the miter slot when the table is at 90° to the tubes.

Okay. That does it. I'll check mine too.

"Indefatigable".
Dusty's on-going search for better ways to do things is giving me a deeper understanding of that odd looking word.

Merry Christmas, btw.

saminmn · Post by **saminmn** » Mon Dec 24, 2012 5:11 pm

I think it is time for me to re-align my table. (I can hear the wood being cut a second time as it completes passing the blade and if I pause I get a burn on one side of the cut, but not the other). I will use traditional method, but am I looking forward to seeing your results.

The floor in my workspace is very uneven and not flat. There is a drain in the middle that most water won't use

etc. I know the table/carriage mount on the way tubes not far from where the table would be aligned, but do you think table alignment would be affected by end-to-end torque (which might cause minor out of parallel) on the way tubes? If so, I would want to do this alignment in the place in the shop every time

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Tue Dec 25, 2012 3:07 pm

saminmn wrote:...t do you think table alignment would be affected by end-to-end torque (which might cause minor out of parallel) on the way tubes? If so, I would want to do this alignment in the place in the shop every time

I would bet my pizza allotment for the next 6 months that the alignment would be (or could be) affected.

For the heck of it: move your ShopSmith a few feet in any direction;
then move the SS back; put Legs on floor, don't "adjust" anything;
put a good level, Wixey or whatever, on an Extension table mounted left, measuring level from left to right (leg to leg);
standing to the left of the SS, reach down and grab the Leg with both hands, near the bottom as you can while still seeing the level, and
pull until the Leg moves at least 1/2";

{{{Alternatively, instead of using a level, when the Extension table is mounted, put a board across it and the Main table, so the board rests on both in a plane, fully contacting both surfaces; then after (or during) moving the Leg see if that is still true}}}