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rdavidp · Post by **rdavidp** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 11:29 am

53superm wrote:Thanks for the welcome guys! This afternoon I ran a seperate electrical line from the service panel in the barn just for the SS. I did find that I have to replace the cord on it as an inspection showed a cut through the insulation, the hot and neutral. How difficult is it to replace the cord? Is there a video on that?

Very simple. I just did this a couple of weeks ago and I know nothing about electricity. I bought a 9ft power tool replacement cord rated for 15amps from Home Depot. It has the hot black, neutral white, and the green ground wire. My Mark V has the toggle switch, and it is setup to have the power cord running from the wall socket to the switch with the neutral and hot connected to the switch and the ground wire connected to a metal plate on the motor. Then there is another cord that is just hot and neutral that runs from the switch to the motor. What I did so that I would not mess up is that I went ahead and crimped new connectors on the hot, neutral, and ground wires on the new power cord. Of course the power cord is unplugged from the wall socket at this time. I disconnected the old power cord's neutral wire from the switch, then immediatley connected the new cord neutral wire to the switch. I then did the same for the hot wire. The switch has male tab connectors while the wires have female tab connectors, so just pull the old off, push the new on. I then took off the old green ground wire from the motor plate, and immediately put the new green ground wire on. Now you are done.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 12:31 pm

If you have a GE motor from that time period the wires from the switch to the motor may look like this
[ATTACH]19391[/ATTACH]
If it does then the pig tail will have to be replaced. If you are not confident doing this a good local electric motor repair shop can handle it.
Bill V

53superm · Post by **53superm** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 8:26 pm

Thanks for the input on the wiring. Yes, I do well with wiring and such. My question is...what pieces of the head stock do I take apart to get to the wiring? What covers, etc do I need to remove to gain access? I will try and get some pics and post them, too.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 8:54 pm

53superm wrote:Thanks for the input on the wiring. Yes, I do well with wiring and such. My question is...what pieces of the head stock do I take apart to get to the wiring? What covers, etc do I need to remove to gain access? I will try and get some pics and post them, too.

After making sure it is NOT plugged in,

1) Remove belt cover(push it away from the headstock).

2) Remove the belt from the motor pulley.(set it to high speed first-by hand if necessary)

3) reach in from access hole and pull off line cord and motor wires from switch. Do take notes on the original wire terminations.

4) place support under the motor pan.

5) remove screws securing motor pan to headstock.

6) remove support and remove motor pan(it is heavy!!!!).

All should be revealed.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 10:46 pm

Just to add to JPG's response; In order to replace the pigtail to the motor the motor will have to be opened by removing the spring and the floating sheave assembly. Then remove the end caps of the motor and remove the armature to gain access to the motor windings.
Leave about 3/4" of old wiring on the stator winding and solder new wire to the old. The original pigtail is connected to the windings with small button style crimp connectors. DO NOT these crimp connectors off. Doing so will make the repair more difficult because you will have to scrape the formvar varnish off the winding. Tape or use heat shrink to insulate the new connection and then return the wires to their original position and lace the new wires to the motor windings as they were in the beginning. I have done this to two motors and according to Bill Mayo this condition is only found on the GE motors
Bill V