Tiebar between headstock and carriage?
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- fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
Tiebar between headstock and carriage?
I want to use my 10ER as a dedicated drill press but would like to lay it down at times. I want to cut the bench down to 1/3 of full length to reduce the footprint due to space issues. Can I install the tie bar and headrest between the headstock and carriage so I have something to rest the way tubes on without having to cut the tubes. Has anybody tried this?
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
What about 2 separate bases? One for upright drill press position with the smaller footprint, and another with the headrest to hold that end when you lay it down.
On second thought, maybe that wouldn't be so safe...
But with the bench cut down that short, and the headstock and motor being outside the headrest and the footprint of the base, I think it might be a little tipsy.
On second thought, maybe that wouldn't be so safe...
But with the bench cut down that short, and the headstock and motor being outside the headrest and the footprint of the base, I think it might be a little tipsy.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
Heath,
I think you are on to something. Just install the headrest on a standalone table which only needs to be wide enough to hold the headrest that would be positioned only as needed when lowering the unit. When not in use just store it away or hang it on the wall.
Thanks for the idea,
Fred
I think you are on to something. Just install the headrest on a standalone table which only needs to be wide enough to hold the headrest that would be positioned only as needed when lowering the unit. When not in use just store it away or hang it on the wall.
Thanks for the idea,
Fred
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
Just make sure it's stable!fredsheldon wrote:Heath,
I think you are on to something. Just install the headrest on a standalone table which only needs to be wide enough to hold the headrest that would be positioned only as needed when lowering the unit. When not in use just store it away or hang it on the wall.
Thanks for the idea,
Fred
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
What I envision is a setup like those pole trailers that haul trees to the mill. Connect the headrest stand to the main table with a tube or pipe which can be removed and stored away when not in use. That way I may actually be able to use it in the lathe mode if so desired. Or better yet, install it as a stabilizer by rolling the base unit out away from the wall and installing the headrest stand as needed. What say you?
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
I think it could work, but there would be a couple things to deal with. First would be stability in both modes. Second would be handling the changeovers.
If the base is in two parts, you want the headrest stable enough to not rack and fall over during use. You could attach it to the main base somehow when in horizontal mode, then detach it when in vertical mode. Or, you could attach the headrest to the wall. Roll the base away from it, then lower the 10ER down onto the headrest. Lift it back into vertical mode and roll the base up against the headrest.
Either way, you want the alignment to be right when you lower to horizontal. As heavy as the 10ER is, you don't want to be holding the machine with one hand trying to get the headrest to the right place. If both parts are mobile, then you could set the distance between the headrest and the base plate with the support brackets. If the headrest is stationary and only the base is mobile, perhaps tether the base at the right distance so when you lower the machine it doesn't get away from you and the alignment with the headrest is right.
I recall now having thought about all of this once before when I was trying to plan for a very small shop. If you decide to go this route, I'd be interested in seeing how you do it and how it works out for you. You might just have to experiment and determine what's best through trial and error.
And remember, "Safety Third!"
If the base is in two parts, you want the headrest stable enough to not rack and fall over during use. You could attach it to the main base somehow when in horizontal mode, then detach it when in vertical mode. Or, you could attach the headrest to the wall. Roll the base away from it, then lower the 10ER down onto the headrest. Lift it back into vertical mode and roll the base up against the headrest.
Either way, you want the alignment to be right when you lower to horizontal. As heavy as the 10ER is, you don't want to be holding the machine with one hand trying to get the headrest to the right place. If both parts are mobile, then you could set the distance between the headrest and the base plate with the support brackets. If the headrest is stationary and only the base is mobile, perhaps tether the base at the right distance so when you lower the machine it doesn't get away from you and the alignment with the headrest is right.
I recall now having thought about all of this once before when I was trying to plan for a very small shop. If you decide to go this route, I'd be interested in seeing how you do it and how it works out for you. You might just have to experiment and determine what's best through trial and error.
And remember, "Safety Third!"
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration