Removing/Installing Rolled Pins

dgale · Post by **dgale** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 6:49 pm

I'm wondering what the preferred procedure is for removing the rolled pin that holds the carriage lock handle to the threaded rod? Once it is removed, I assume the pin has to be replaced and is not reusable (?) If so, where does one find one of these pins? What's the best method for pressing the pin back into place?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:30 pm

dgale wrote:I'm wondering what the preferred procedure is for removing the rolled pin that holds the carriage lock handle to the threaded rod? Once it is removed, I assume the pin has to be replaced and is not reusable (?) If so, where does one find one of these pins? What's the best method for pressing the pin back into place?

If not damaged they can be reused.

After getting them started by gentle hammer tapping, they can be either tapped all the way in or pressed in with a vise or large pliers.

A 'real' hardware store will carry them.

dgale · Post by **dgale** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:11 pm

So how do you get them out in order to separate the handle from the threaded rod?

videobear · Post by **videobear** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:45 pm

Use a punch to start it. A nail set might work.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:49 pm

dgale wrote:So how do you get them out in order to separate the handle from the threaded rod?

May I suggest a pin punch of appropriate size. See this link for an example of a set. Jim

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6739-Pin-P ... =pin+punch

dgale · Post by **dgale** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:01 pm

fjimp wrote:May I suggest a pin punch of appropriate size. See this link for an example of a set. Jim

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6739-Pin-P ... =pin+punch

Thanks - that helps...I couldn't really see how I'd fit a nail set or any of the tapered punches I have into a hole that small, but I can see how those punches should do the trick.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:41 pm

Just make sure your punch isn't too small as to enter into the rolled pin. If that happens it can expand the rolled pin to really wedge it into the hole.

Been there done that and it wasn't pretty!!!!!!!!!:eek:

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:02 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:Just make sure your punch isn't too small as to enter into the rolled pin. If that happens it can expand the rolled pin to really wedge it into the hole.

Been there done that and it wasn't pretty!!!!!!!!!:eek:

Your welcome, I suggest you you use care in selecting a size small enough to not hit the casing yet large enough to not slip with inside the pin as mentioned above. Good luck. Incidentally I picked the Amazon picture only because it was a great descriptive picture. I have two sets neither of which came from Amazon. One came from a company called tool king. The other from what I call an old style hardware store. Someone on the discussion group called such a place a "Real Hardware Store" Good luck. Jim

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:28 pm

dgale wrote:Thanks - that helps...I couldn't really see how I'd fit a nail set or any of the tapered punches I have into a hole that small, but I can see how those punches should do the trick.

For the lock handle on the headstock lock and 500 carriage lock, a 1/8" punch works great. For the pin that goes into the pivot rod that connects the arm to the base (right side of bench) a 5/32" punch does the trick. These punches also come in very when disassembling casters.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:50 pm

I found that if I supported the part with the roll pin, I am less likely to bend the pin punch when hammering the roll pin. I have notched 2X4 that I set on the floor to hold handles. I drilled a hole for the roll pin to fall into so I do not have to go looking for the roll pin when I punch it out. Also the pin punch will help align the handle hole to the rod hole for reassembling.