Oops, I might have goofed.

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fredsheldon
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Oops, I might have goofed.

Post by fredsheldon »

When disassembling my 10ER for repainting I unscrewed the Headstock, Saw Table and Quill Lock levers completely before removing the quill or way tubes. I don't recall anything falling out at the time. After reviewing the blowup diagram it looks like the locking levers should have had two locks. When I repainted everything I didn't notice anything still remaining in the headstock which would have been the second half of the locks which I assume became unattached when I unscrewed the lever. When I reinstalled everything the locking levers seemed to be working properly except for the fact that unless I really tighten the headstock lock it slips when I raise it to the drill press position. Were the second half of the locks still installed in the headstock which is why nothing fell out. I assume there must have been a threaded nut and the second half of the lock still in the headstock that the locking lever rethreaded into when I reinstalled them. I will take a look tonight to see if I can see anything but was hoping I could get some advice here.
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Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

fredsheldon wrote:When disassembling my 10ER for repainting I unscrewed the Headstock, Saw Table and Quill Lock levers completely before removing the quill or way tubes. I don't recall anything falling out at the time. After reviewing the blowup diagram it looks like the locking levers should have had two locks. When I repainted everything I didn't notice anything still remaining in the headstock which would have been the second half of the locks which I assume became unattached when I unscrewed the lever. When I reinstalled everything the locking levers seemed to be working properly except for the fact that unless I really tighten the headstock lock it slips when I raise it to the drill press position. Were the second half of the locks still installed in the headstock which is why nothing fell out. I assume there must have been a threaded nut and the second half of the lock still in the headstock that the locking lever rethreaded into when I reinstalled them. I will take a look tonight to see if I can see anything but was hoping I could get some advice here.
[ATTACH]19625[/ATTACH]
The 10's can have one wedge lock or two it depends upon when your machine was made. The newer ones had two wedge locks. Some of the machines had wedges made of brass.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

In the case of the single wedge lock, does the locking lever screw into a threaded hole in the headstock? If it does have only the single wedge lock would that account for why the headstock lever requires more effort to prevent slipping on the way tubes? Thanks for your advice.
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
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SDSSmith
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Location: San Diego, CA

Post by SDSSmith »

fredsheldon wrote:In the case of the single wedge lock, does the locking lever screw into a threaded hole in the headstock? If it does have only the single wedge lock would that account for why the headstock lever requires more effort to prevent slipping on the way tubes? Thanks for your advice.
On signle wedge machines, the handle screws into the headstock casting driving the wedge against the way tube. The single wedge might contribute to your having to use more effort to lock the headstock. But, you should check the condition of the wedge. It may have become deformed and need to be dressed up with a file.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
randyrls
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Post by randyrls »

fredsheldon wrote:When I reinstalled everything the locking levers seemed to be working properly except for the fact that unless I really tighten the headstock lock it slips when I raise it to the drill press position.
Fred; Sometimes the solution isn't so obvious. I had this same problem, and discovered I was turning the lock in the wrong direction. Turning it the other way locks securely.
Randy S.
Commit Random Kindness and Senseless Acts of Beauty.
tred1956
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Post by tred1956 »

Oops, I might have goofed

If I only had a nickel for every time I said THAT:D

Merry Cristmas
Doug
Enjoy life but, remember we are only practicing for something Better
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

tred1956 wrote:Oops, I might have goofed

If I only had a nickel for every time I said THAT:D

Merry Cristmas
Doug
If 'Oops' works for you, fine! At least two of the letters are 'appropriate'!:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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