What have I done? the motor will not run.

godavid2 · Post by **godavid2** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 3:27 pm

How do you determine a sloppy keyway and what do you mean by poor service? I guess what I'm asking is how does poor service affect the eccentric bushing? I did notice the the vent plate was missing the other day, thanks

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 7:01 pm

Poor service would equate with a lack of lubrication over a long period of time. The bushing would not be directly affected but when you loosen the poly v belt by backing off on the bushing a little bit of slippage would soften the start of the control sheave so that any noise from a worn keyway would be softened. If you dismantle the headstock again you might want to check if there is any excessive play between the key stock and the keyway in the sheave.
The control sheave must move along the length of the shaft and the key and any long term binding and forcing of the speed control could have caused some wear.
I just rebuilt a headstock which had a similar problem after a complete rebuild.
I changed all of the bearings the control sheave and both belts and the unit developed a loud click on startup. Sounded like a slight hammer tap on the case at startup. There is nothing I could do at this time to resolve the noise except to replace the idler shaft and it was not considered cost effective for our woodworking club. So the click remains and I really don't think it will cause any future problems. If it does I will be back inside of it again.

Bill V

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 8:56 pm

godavid2 wrote:Really, how come when I backoff the tension there is no click? thanks JPG

I do not know, but you should always hear the start switch click when it slows down. Perhaps less tension creates more slop in the drive train that increases the background noise and masks the click. Perhaps greater tension increases the deceleration rate and the click becomes more pronounced.

Part of our confusion is the result of us not having pix of your ss and we have provided confusing multiple ss versions information.

You have been concerned about the click, but have not yet determined the parts causing it.

If the click is NOT the start switch, then whatever is causing it will probably not cause a disaster, and if it does get 'worse', the cause should then become apparent.

A slipping poly-v belt makes the ss less than useful so IMHO at this point increase the tension so it will no longer slip, continue to observe the click and resume this headscratching when more details have emerged.

godavid2 · Post by **godavid2** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 11:26 pm

Sorry, for the confusion JPG. I'm really talking about two different head stocks here. My regular SS which has the click. If you recall I discovered this click when I adjusted the tension of the Poly V belt because of the slow start with the sanding disk. When I turn the drive sheave by hand the click is more intermittent and more pronounced too. There is also more play in between the actual engaging of the drive. There seems to be quite bit of slack when turning the drive sheave and the engaging of the motor. Does this make any sense? So I'm not sure if it is the start switch or not. I would take some pictures but I'm not sure what pictures you want. By the way the motor that blew the circuit breaker runs

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 11:43 am

godavid2 wrote:Sorry, for the confusion JPG. I'm really talking about two different head stocks here. My regular SS which has the click. If you recall I discovered this click when I adjusted the tension of the Poly V belt because of the slow start with the sanding disk. When I turn the drive sheave by hand the click is more intermittent and more pronounced too. There is also more play in between the actual engaging of the drive. There seems to be quite bit of slack when turning the drive sheave and the engaging of the motor. Does this make any sense? So I'm not sure if it is the start switch or not. I would take some pictures but I'm not sure what pictures you want. By the way the motor that blew the circuit breaker runs

I understood the two headstock situation.

Headstock A belt slips - click becomes apparent when belt tension increased

Headstock B trips breaker

Now which one has the play in the control sheave? That play is likely the result of wear of the keyway/key on the idler shaft as previously mentioned(here or the other thread).

Perhaps we need to address the A one in the original thread, and address the b one in this thread 'only'(i.e. one set of parts at a time;)).

Also let us restrict info to the headstock/eccentric that is relevant to each one. To do so requires we determine that for each. Pix would really make that easier to do.

Over!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 12:10 pm

godavid2 wrote:Sorry, for the confusion JPG. I'm really talking about two different head stocks here. My regular SS which has the click. If you recall I discovered this click when I adjusted the tension of the Poly V belt because of the slow start with the sanding disk. When I turn the drive sheave by hand the click is more intermittent and more pronounced too. There is also more play in between the actual engaging of the drive. There seems to be quite bit of slack when turning the drive sheave and the engaging of the motor. Does this make any sense? So I'm not sure if it is the start switch or not. I would take some pictures but I'm not sure what pictures you want. By the way the motor that blew the circuit breaker runs

This is the unit that caused the unidentified "pop", right??

Did you do anything that you specifically know to have fixed this or is this one of those problems that just lingers until you really need to use the Mark V?

godavid2 · Post by **godavid2** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 1:41 pm

Dusty there are two different units. Sorry about the confusion. The only thing I've done right now was to clean the motor and blow it out. I have not reassembled it yet. I ran the motor without the belts and the motor runs fine and does not blow the breaker. I have to get some new belts. The drive belt is really worn. That might take awhile because of the holidays. I'll call this head stock 'B'. Also the speed control was all out of whack so that has to be address probably before a reassemble. JPG is asking for pictures and I can do that but not certain what to shoot especially if the key way does have some slack in head stock 'A'. Does the idler shaft have to be remove in order to determine if the key way is the cause of the slack and click?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 2:31 pm

godavid2 wrote:Dusty there are two different units. Sorry about the confusion. The only thing I've done right now was to clean the motor and blow it out. I have not reassembled it yet. I ran the motor without the belts and the motor runs fine and does not blow the breaker. I have to get some new belts. The drive belt is really worn. That might take awhile because of the holidays. I'll call this head stock 'B'. Also the speed control was all out of whack so that has to be address probably before a reassemble. JPG is asking for pictures and I can do that but not certain what to shoot especially if the key way does have some slack in head stock 'A'. Does the idler shaft have to be remove in order to determine if the key way is the cause of the slack and click?

I'm really glad that the motor runs. I don't know what JPG has in mind regarding slop in the keyway so I'll just wait for the outcome there. As for pictures, just send what you have. If he doesn't see what he wants to see, he can get specific.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 2:47 pm

dusty wrote:I'm really glad that the motor runs. I don't know what JPG has in mind regarding slop in the keyway so I'll just wait for the outcome there. As for pictures, just send what you have. If he doesn't see what he wants to see, he can get specific.

The keyway slop is a possible cause of the 'click' in A that comes/goes with belt tension changes. We be groping there!

Since the motor(B) runs ok, let us put B on the back burner, and go back to the clicker(A) in the other thread.

godavid2 · Post by **godavid2** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 6:04 pm

Okay, JPG, I will get you some pictures as soon as I can and you can tell me if these are what you want. I don't know if I will be able to upload any pictures it seems as my pictures are too large. I did want to add that I have another head stock with the red start switch. It does not have a serial #. So I'm presuming that it is a ninety something head stock. There is no click when I shut it down or when I turn the motor sheave by hand. The head stock in question the click is coming from the idler shaft. I determined that by rotating the drive sheave and putting my finger on the idler shaft. And like I said before the click is intermittent.