Finishing

[heathicus]

I hate applying finish to a project. That is where I usually feel like I totally screwed up the whole thing. I wish I could just hand my projects off to a professional finisher.

I think I have 2 main problems when it comes to finishes. First, I'm ignorant. Most finishes and techniques are a mystery to me. I don't understand what they do and the type of effect they will have and how best to apply them. Second, I can't find an interest to learn. Finishing is not woodworking. It's painting with chemistry. I spend all this time and effort worrying over every detail of the project when I'm working the wood, but when it comes to finishing, I just want to slap something on and be done. I want quick and easy. And that doesn't work.

Sorry, just had to rant.

[garys]

I've always truly enjoyed the finishing stage. The finish is what brings out the final beauty of the wood so I can enjoy it. Until the finish is applied, it is just raw wood. With the finish on it, it is a piece of furniture. That stage is truly enjoyable to me.

[nuhobby]

Heath, I think you speak for a lot of us.

When I look at my older projects, I can see I've come along on finishing, but I still dread that step some.

Some of the best, bulletproof finishes out there are probably in the domain of UV-cured, catalyzed, or other methods not suitable to the hobby shop.

Some of the trends I've personally gone toward are:
- Wiping finishes rather than brushed or sprayed.
- If a piece will have at-all decent care in its life, I no longer try for the ultra-durable finishes. Something supposedly delicate (e.g., shellac) will probably hold up fine. Likewise for a fairly thin-build finish of oils or varnishes.
- The gun-wood finish, Tru-Oil, is really pretty remarkable for convenience. I can get on 3-4 coats in a couple of days, it doesn't smell bad, and it's easy to wipe/blot on in a very drip-free fashion. If there's too much applied, it can start to look 'synthetic', though.
- The Shellawax finish for pens, while being a "friction finish", can also work very easily for small non-turned pieces. Some manual rubbing can really make it glow.

Even if finishing can be frustrating, I'm still always amazed at how much deeper the wood looks after the first application. Pretty amazing when you think about it.

[Ed in Tampa]

To me Tung oil or Tung oil poly mix is fool proof and can be as shiney or as dull as you want. Oil will not hide grain or and faults but I have found even the worst fault usually looks better with oil on it than any other finish.

One thing I did learn was on open grain wood to oil the wood then using 220 or higher wet dry paper to work up a slurry which will fill the open grain. Produces as high gloss finish as you want if you are willing to do the sanding.

Cured Tung/poly mix (cures in about 7 days) is not touched by alcohol, water, or rough usage.

[joedw00]

To me Tung oil or Tung oil poly mix is fool proof and can be as shiney or as dull as you want. Oil will not hide grain or and faults but I have found even the worst fault usually looks better with oil on it than any other finish.

One thing I did learn was on open grain wood to oil the wood then using 220 or higher wet dry paper to work up a slurry which will fill the open grain. Produces as high gloss finish as you want if you are willing to do the sanding.

Cured Tung/poly mix (cures in about 7 days) is not touched by alcohol, water, or rough usage.

I usually just get a stain I like. Ed do you sand it while it is still wet with the oil? What is the difference between the Tung oil and the Tung oil poly mix?

[holsgo]

I've grown to love this stage. One I pour all those hours into a piece it really brings it to life to finish it. I've played with a ton of types and my current solution can be quite complex. That said, I've had more interest in my pieces now that I spend a bit of time on this step. I have died the clear coat after staining the wood itself to almost bring out a candy finish like on cars. Just a lot of fun to play with. Try looking at The process as a challenge just like the actual cutting of wood and it will be a lot more fun.

[forrestb]

I am starting to experiment with water soluble powdered dye. They no longer contain aniline but apparently the name stuck. Dust mask, gloves and glasses are all that's needed when mixing.

Since they are dissolved in water it is best to wash the piece with water, let it dry and then sand with P220. The dye goes on really easy: flood it and wipe it off - it dye fast.

Plus the color charts for the dyes have so many colors or shades that any result is possible.

Any finish can be applied over them. I intend on a brushed on SealCoat followed by spray polyurethane or shellac on the current table base.

Forrest

[fjimp]

I've grown to love this stage. One I pour all those hours into a piece it really brings it to life to finish it. I've played with a ton of types and my current solution can be quite complex. That said, I've had more interest in my pieces now that I spend a bit of time on this step. I have died the clear coat after staining the wood itself to almost bring out a candy finish like on cars. Just a lot of fun to play with. Try looking at The process as a challenge just like the actual cutting of wood and it will be a lot more fun.

Very true view of finishing. Most of my life I have done everything I could to avoid finishing. Then some twenty years ago we lived in a house for several weeks (while our new Virginia home was being completed) where the owner found no joy or interest in finishing. That house was constructed by his own hand. Every room had an odor we could not identify. It was nearly impossible to clean the place. Every surface one touched left a splinter in the finger or if one was barefoot in a toe. From that day forward finishing has become more important to me. Over the last several years I have experimented with various finishes and techniques. During the healing from my surgery I have two goals in mind. First is to learn and become comfortable with Sketchup. Drawing has never been my long suit. Secondly is to watch the videos I have on hand and those I can find online and read all the articles and books I have on finishing. I have come a fair distance with finishing but intend to reach new heights in the future. To date I have learned that abrasives are either ones friend or enemy. Since switching to the new Shopsmith abrasives I find finishing is easier. Funny how starting with the low grits and using every grit thru the 330 grit helps my finishes so much. Then I use grits doing all the way thru 3300 grit. I discontinued using steel wool in favor of the 3300 grit and find my finishes shine and have a smoothness I never thought possible. The one point I really need to make here is that finishing is a time consuming step, but if done one step at a time and taking a minute to admire the change with each step it becomes highly rewarding. Another point for me is that I find if two or three coats are suggested four or five is far more rewarding. I hope that finishing can become a joy and rewarding for others. Jim

[edinbako]

I hate finishing, too. I sand to 220 then use 0000 steel wool and try to get a shine and then I Tung Oil it. Usually three coats and I let it dry really good between coats. I don't have the patience to be a good finisher, I have to leave the shop for a day of so and go play golf between coats. I've tried lacquer, the polys, yada yada. Tung Oil is simple.

[S Brian]

I am certainly not well versed when it comes to finish on a project, but i would recommend to any woodworker that they buy Bob Flexner's book, UNDERSTANDING WOOD FINISHING. There are two publications out there, so get the Completely Revised And Updated version, published in 2005. His explanations are easy to understand and he covers everything from preparation of the wood to the many types of finish available. The price is in the $20 to $25 range.