I'm thinking about cutting 16" off of them. I might want to go a few inches shorter but is easier to cut a bit more off than add some back on.
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Shorty / mini sizes
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robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
Shorty / mini sizes
I want to cut my two restored Mark V's down as Shorties. I was looking at them tonight to decide the length I want them. I was searching the forum to see if I could find length discussions but for some reason I didn't find much. The Shopsmith fairies must be angry.
I'm thinking about cutting 16" off of them. I might want to go a few inches shorter but is easier to cut a bit more off than add some back on.
.
I'm thinking about cutting 16" off of them. I might want to go a few inches shorter but is easier to cut a bit more off than add some back on.
.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Did ya read this thread?
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=2
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=2
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
I cut 18" off of one of mine and created a free standing over arm pin router. I quickly discovered a lack of balance and am forced to use two steady legs to support the table in an upright position. No I do not have a headstock on it. Jimrobinson46176 wrote:I want to cut my two restored Mark V's down as Shorties. I was looking at them tonight to decide the length I want them. I was searching the forum to see if I could find length discussions but for some reason I didn't find much. The Shopsmith fairies must be angry.
I'm thinking about cutting 16" off of them. I might want to go a few inches shorter but is easier to cut a bit more off than add some back on.
.
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
If it's a model 500, cutting off 16" will allow you to operate all five functions of the Shopsmith. Plus, you'll be able to attach the belt sander and the disk sander at the same time and still get a bit of quill action for the sanding disk. As I recall, you'll get about 19" ripping capacity and the same for spindle turning. The drill press is a bit squat, however, but still usable.
If it's a later model Shopsmith, you'll need to cut off less because of the wider tables and longer length of the sanding disk's hub. To get a good fit, you could install the belt sander, then the disk, then slide the work table to within an inch of the disk, then install the auxiliary table, then measure the gap between the two tables, subtract about an inch from that measurement for wiggle room, and cut off that much from each tube.
If it's a later model Shopsmith, you'll need to cut off less because of the wider tables and longer length of the sanding disk's hub. To get a good fit, you could install the belt sander, then the disk, then slide the work table to within an inch of the disk, then install the auxiliary table, then measure the gap between the two tables, subtract about an inch from that measurement for wiggle room, and cut off that much from each tube.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
I had the same issue. I now store my joiner on the opposite end to keep some balance.fjimp wrote:I cut 18" off of one of mine and created a free standing over arm pin router. I quickly discovered a lack of balance and am forced to use two steady legs to support the table in an upright position. No I do not have a headstock on it. Jim
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.