Yep. I used a set of these from Harbor Freight to shim my main table.Gene Howe wrote:I used washers but you can find "U" shaped shim stock at most auto parts stores. Mine came as a graduated set. I think there are 12 in the set and all together they equal about 3/8". But, they do sell them individually.
I have not noticed any changes in the way it saws and I resaw 5 1/2". If anything, it might be better. It sure is better for thick curves. No more bellies.
BandSaw blade-to-table Square, or no
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- JPG
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Not sure what the 'factory' reasoning is, but, I believe the blade angle not vertical is caused by the canted/beveled wheel etc.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
My copy of the manual states:
Maybe the bogging problem is with the original 3/4hp motors?
It goes on to say that if you don't like that, shim the bolts on the low side of the table.The angle of the table surface to the back of the blade should never need adjustment. The bandsaw is manufactured so that this angle is slightly off from 90°. This helps prevent the machine from bogging down when you first start to cut, especially in thick stock.
Maybe the bogging problem is with the original 3/4hp motors?
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35598
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
heathicus wrote:My copy of the manual states:
It goes on to say that if you don't like that, shim the bolts on the low side of the table. <<<<<<<<
Maybe the bogging problem is with the original 3/4hp motors?
Thanks you getting me to read that!
FWIW it also goes on to 'recommend' shimming the table. Sorry Heath, I missed that first time through!
Methinks the 'reason' was an after the fact attempt to justify the 'angle'.
If I were a box maker or cutter of oddly shaped thick stuff,I would definitely shim.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange