New owner of abused tool

rustyr · Post by **rustyr** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 12:19 pm

I just fell into a Mark V 510 with a few attachments.It looks like someone has left it outside,lot of rust. problem is ,cant get tablesaw blade off. set screw on arbor is gone and can see shaft below. silver collar only moves about a quarter inch. Its been soaking in pb blaster for a week,and I have been tapping on it but no movement yet...dont want to trash bearings. am I missing something?
Any help will be appreciate any help , I dont have a manual.

holsgo · Post by **holsgo** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 12:46 pm

First, welcome. Second, there are going to be a ton of tricks listed by members on this. But take the easy route and heat that arbor up, real hot. Then knock it off. You'll kill your front bearing but it sounds like it needs to be replaced anyway. Just a thought but if you tried everything else it will certainly work.
A tamer approach will be a bar against the back of the arbor and pound the hell out of it to force the arbor off. Had to do this once and I thought it was crazy....but it was a raised burr in the end.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 12:48 pm

rustyr wrote:I just fell into a Mark V 510 with a few attachments.It looks like someone has left it outside,lot of rust. problem is ,cant get tablesaw blade off. set screw on arbor is gone and can see shaft below. silver collar only moves about a quarter inch. Its been soaking in pb blaster for a week,and I have been tapping on it but no movement yet...dont want to trash bearings. am I missing something?
Any help will be appreciate any help , I dont have a manual.

1) 'Silver' collar irrelevant. Put it back where you found it. Later you can make sure it is aligned correctly.

2) The arbor/quill shaft are a close fit. Any corrosion will freeze them.

3) If you got 1/4" motion from the 'silver' collar, the arbor is not fully seated on the shaft(tis alkready part way towards off).

4) That 1/4" gap provides a way to pry. I would use something that serves as a wedge. A tapered punch? Apply wedging force around the shaft(not all in one place).

5) Heating the arbor(not too much) may help.

You want to avoid any further damage to the quill shaft. It is replaceable however).

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 1:08 pm

Did ya try and rock the arbor from front to back? Squirt some more pb blaster in there.

dgale · Post by **dgale** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:42 pm

Since you have a 1/4" gap, see if you can fit a crescent wrench or something similar in there and then bang on the handle as you rotate it around. Either it is rusted together or maybe someone torqued a set screw too hard and cause a small burr to form on the shaft that is now hung up on the arbor as it tries to slide over it (?)

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:31 am

Another thing you might want to try is using Evapo-Rust. Use a syringe, eye dropper or something similar to put some in the set screw hole. Stand it up in drill press mode and add some Evapo-Rust around the saw arbor and spindle. Keep adding the stuff and let it set for a day or so and then some gentle taps likely will release the arbor.