PapaJo
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PapaJo
I have a Mark V, I can not extend the Quill. It's like it's froze, I have my machine in the garage and I'm thinking that it may have rusted because I had some health issue and didn't use the machine for several years. I checked what the troubleshooting guide suggests and everything there is OK.
I know that this will sound dumb but did you loosen the quill lock? If the quill lock is loosened but the quill will still not move I would suggest that you put some penetrating oil on the quill where it enters the headstock casting and also on the pinion shaft where it enters the headstock behind the quill lock. Allow it to penetrate completely and put on several applications. Eventually it should come loose.
Bill V
Bill V
I bought a used Mark V one time and ran into a problem where the quill would not extend or retract. It turned out to be the Allen guide screw that keeps the quill in place. Someone had replace the special Allen guide screw with a regular set screw and it resulted in the problem. A regular Allen set screw with cause a burr along the groove in the quill. But that might not be the problem in your case.
I watched a video last week with Nick Engler doing quill maintenance. It's from one of the Saw Dust Sessions. Here is a link:
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... enance.htm
I watched a video last week with Nick Engler doing quill maintenance. It's from one of the Saw Dust Sessions. Here is a link:
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... enance.htm
One Greenie, Two Mark 7s,Three 510s and much more…
- JPG
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Since that half dog set screw just barely clears the bottom of the keyway slot on the top of the quill, it may just need to be removed, cleaned etc. and put back. Once the screw is removed, you can 'see' down to the keyway. The only other things possibly stuck are the quill shaft(both sides of the headstock) and the return spring(very unlikely). Most of this stuff is steel to aluminum, so rust seized parts are unlikely.backhertz wrote:I bought a used Mark V one time and ran into a problem where the quill would not extend or retract. It turned out to be the Allen guide screw that keeps the quill in place. Someone had replace the special Allen guide screw with a regular set screw and it resulted in the problem. A regular Allen set screw with cause a burr along the groove in the quill. But that might not be the problem in your case.
I watched a video last week with Nick Engler doing quill maintenance. It's from one of the Saw Dust Sessions. Here is a link:
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS107/SS107_Quill_Maintenance.htm
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
[PHP]Most of this stuff is steel to aluminum, so rust seized parts are unlikely.[/PHP]
Steel parts due tend to expand somewhat due to rust. I broke down an old Basket Case Mark VII over the weekend. And, I found that the upper way tubes were so rusted that the headstock and castings were frozen in place. I found I had to grind down the rust on the way tubes to get them to slide off. However, Dusty is right. The aluminum will not take excessive abuse. So, patience and oil is your master.
Steel parts due tend to expand somewhat due to rust. I broke down an old Basket Case Mark VII over the weekend. And, I found that the upper way tubes were so rusted that the headstock and castings were frozen in place. I found I had to grind down the rust on the way tubes to get them to slide off. However, Dusty is right. The aluminum will not take excessive abuse. So, patience and oil is your master.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Yep! If there IS sufficient clearance for air moisture to get between them. However nothing like rust growing from both sides of the gap.dforeman wrote:[php]Most of this stuff is steel to aluminum, so rust seized parts are unlikely.[/php]
Steel parts due tend to expand somewhat due to rust. I broke down an old Basket Case Mark VII over the weekend. And, I found that the upper way tubes were so rusted that the headstock and castings were frozen in place. I found I had to grind down the rust on the way tubes to get them to slide off. However, Dusty is right. The aluminum will not take excessive abuse. So, patience and oil is your master.
I liked MickyD's 'solution - electroysis rust removal to get the headstock off the tubes.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange