5/8 Keyless Chuck
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I rank tightening all three drill chuck holes right up there with counting all five handles (to be sure they are tight) before I start the motor. Just one more safety check. One little mistake can be painful (and expensive).
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1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
- fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
Not to drag out this thread but I just can't get my mind around why it makes any difference in what hole or how many holes to use. Just looking at how the chuck works, it seems to me that the only purpose of the key is to rotate the outer ring which I assume is threaded on the inside which engages jaws which also have threads. As the outer ring is rotated, all three jaws engage the thread inside the ring at the same time. I don't quite understand why it makes any difference which holes is used since the rotating ring doesn't care where it's rotational effort is coming from or which side of the chuck it's coming from. Sorry, I just like to understand from a mechanical point of view how things work.
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
fredsheldon wrote:Not to drag out this thread but I just can't get my mind around why it makes any difference in what hole or how many holes to use. Just looking at how the chuck works, it seems to me that the only purpose of the key is to rotate the outer ring which I assume is threaded on the inside which engages jaws which also have threads. As the outer ring is rotated, all three jaws engage the thread inside the ring at the same time. I don't quite understand why it makes any difference which holes is used since the rotating ring doesn't care where it's rotational effort is coming from or which side of the chuck it's coming from. Sorry, I just like to understand from a mechanical point of view how things work.
That's OK Fred... I have 60 years of almost always sticking the key in any one hole in the chuck and tightening it down on the bit, drilling the hole and moving on with my life...


Now hand tighten chucks are another story... hence the preference for hex or 3 sided shanks for those.

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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
JPG40504 wrote:Consider how the jaws are advanced inward(bit squeezing).
The outer sleeve(the part with the gear teeth at the end that the chuck key drives) is threaded inside. Those threads engage threads on the jaws. The jaw threads are offset so the jaws are 'synchronized'(advance 'together' in unison). There is a slight amount of play in those threads that the round robin tightening minimizes. After the tightening in the first hole, the other two will cause diminishing movement of the sleeve.
Those threads are also tapered to match the slope of the jaws[outside edge that rides in a groove in the (lower) body].
With a new chuck the triple tightening is less necessary, but on a worn chuck it becomes 'mandatory'. I have an old 3226 that requires twice around!
Same thing with 'cheaper' chucks.
Fred did ya read the above post?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
Bob, Yes I read it but to be honest I'm not sure I really understood it after the first read. Now that I have read it twice more times and went out and looked at my chuck, I think I have a better understanding of what it all meansbeeg wrote:Fred did ya read the above post?

Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
Basically your taking up the slop in all of the threads.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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- Silver Member
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2011 3:23 pm
The chuck is precision machined and feels great to touch and operate. A similar German made product cost far exceeds the ShopSmith price. I am pleased with my purchase. You should try one to truly believe it...backhertz wrote:Got a email special on this new chuck. I noticed though that the price is the same as the price in the holiday catalog: $130.21. I was hoping to see a sale price, but perhaps this is an introductory price. Thoughts?
So I Googled 5/8" keyless chucks. Found one on Ebay , new for $29.50 <lol> Found another for $319.59. Quite a difference & it appears like a quality product.
I don't think any of us in Shopsmith Forum land have tried one as it is not available until Jan 30th. I'm no longer buying anything until the item has been used by others and have written reviews.
Here is the Shopsmith write up:
Shopsmith 5/8" Keyless Drill Chuck
If you've always wanted a drill chuck that could hold larger bits and let you switch from size-to-size quickly without fiddling with a chuck key, this mammoth, three-and-a-half-pound beast is your answer !
Manufactured especially to Shopsmith's stringent specifications, this rugged, smooth-acting chuck cuts bit-changing times significantly -- feels like quality in your hand -- and delivers the kinds of performance you would expect from any Shopsmith product. It's a real “beauty”.
Measuring 6" from end-to-end, it's over 2-5/16" in diameter with a 1-1/4" wide, deeply knurled band that gives you an easy, slip-free grip. Its three precision-ground jaws open and close with amazing smoothness to grasp bits from just 1/32" to 5/8" in diameter.
It also works well for turning dowels up to 5/8" in diameter... and for smoothing or cleaning steel or aluminum rods, tubing and similar items. You will NOT be disappointed !
Important Note:
These new chucks were being manufactured especially for us as our recent catalog was being printed. Although you may place your order now, they will not be available for delivery until January of 2013.
isobrownmk5,isobrownmk5 wrote:The chuck is precision machined and feels great to touch and operate. A similar German made product cost far exceeds the ShopSmith price. I am pleased with my purchase. You should try one to truly believe it...
It looks like from your post that you have one of the new chucks correct?
I thought about buying the keyless chuck but have a question. Can you lock the chuck down without using two hands? I have one hand and had keyless chucks on my cordless drills. The drill motor provides sufficient resistance that I can tighten the keyless chuck with one hand. I have the PowerPro so there is not nearly the resistance to turning the spindle as there was on my old headstock. Does the chuck ratchet like the Makita 18v Lithium drill?
Thanks
Jack
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
I mentioned the hex shank bits for hand tighten chucks earlier. Actually what I like for casual working is a system I have had for a number of years. It is the hex shank bits with the ring which mounts in a quick change coupler that also has a hex shank. I chuck the coupler in the drill chuck and then use the quick change bits and drivers for switching around. The set I have has the trade name on it of "Lock-n-Load" and the bits are marked "Speedbor" both of which are now Irwin trade names but I don't know if they always were. My set does not say Irwin anywhere on it. The case has a big Lock-n-Load and tm (trade mark) on the top of the case. My set has 4 quick attach twist drills, 6 spade3 bits and a half dozen or more drivers.
I like using them well enough that I intend to just keep buying that type of shank for everything I can.
Here is a link to Irwin Lock-n-Load at Sears.
http://www.sears.com/search=irwin+tools+4935703+2+inch+speedbor+lock+n+load+quick+change+bit+holder?catalogId=12605&autoRedirect=false&storeId=10153&yikes_prod=true
BTW, everything is stamped USA...
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I like using them well enough that I intend to just keep buying that type of shank for everything I can.
Here is a link to Irwin Lock-n-Load at Sears.
http://www.sears.com/search=irwin+tools+4935703+2+inch+speedbor+lock+n+load+quick+change+bit+holder?catalogId=12605&autoRedirect=false&storeId=10153&yikes_prod=true
BTW, everything is stamped USA...
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--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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- Silver Member
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2011 3:23 pm
Yes, I'm using it to mill a project as we write; one hand and knee will lock the chuck. There are other ideal ways to lock it, give it some thought. No ratchet feature on this chuck. This is a machine mounted chuck that will do precision work. Choice is just a word. Will it work for you or you with it?claimdude wrote:isobrownmk5,
It looks like from your post that you have one of the new chucks correct?
I thought about buying the keyless chuck but have a question. Can you lock the chuck down without using two hands? I have one hand and had keyless chucks on my cordless drills. The drill motor provides sufficient resistance that I can tighten the keyless chuck with one hand. I have the PowerPro so there is not nearly the resistance to turning the spindle as there was on my old headstock. Does the chuck ratchet like the Makita 18v Lithium drill?
Thanks
Jack