I'm planning on getting into bowl turning in a big way and will be looking to purchase a chain saw that will be capable of cutting large logs into blanks for all different sizes of bowls. I have been told that this saw would be a good choice assuming I get a rip chain to rip logs lengthwise.
Does anybody have experience with cutting their own logs both green and dried for bowl making and would this chain saw be up to the task?
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain- ... aws/ms311/
Chain Saw Recommendations
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fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
Chain Saw Recommendations
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
Check these sites out...
the good folks here will be able to help you out...
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/inde ... d,9.0.html
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/
I use my sawmill, Stihl and JD saws to support my SS and turning projects...
Leif
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/inde ... d,9.0.html
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/
I use my sawmill, Stihl and JD saws to support my SS and turning projects...
Leif
Leif
1981 Mark V Model 500 "Shorty"
1981 Mark V Model 500 "Drill Press"
1987 Sawsmith 2000 Ultra
2005 Mark 7 PowerPro Model 520/Bandsaw/Jointer/Pro Planer/Belt Sander/Scroll Saw/Jigsaw/Strip Sander/Universal Tool Rest/Speed Reducer/DC3300/RingMaster/Mortising Package/MiterSled 5000/Biscuit Joiner/Grinding Wheel Guard/Nova G3 Chuck/Lathe Duplicator/SS Air System
2010 Lumber Smith sawmill
CarveWright CNC
"I wish I could remember everything my Dad taught me"
1981 Mark V Model 500 "Shorty"
1981 Mark V Model 500 "Drill Press"
1987 Sawsmith 2000 Ultra
2005 Mark 7 PowerPro Model 520/Bandsaw/Jointer/Pro Planer/Belt Sander/Scroll Saw/Jigsaw/Strip Sander/Universal Tool Rest/Speed Reducer/DC3300/RingMaster/Mortising Package/MiterSled 5000/Biscuit Joiner/Grinding Wheel Guard/Nova G3 Chuck/Lathe Duplicator/SS Air System
2010 Lumber Smith sawmill
CarveWright CNC
"I wish I could remember everything my Dad taught me"
Stihl is definitely my first choice. I have owned several chainsaws in my life. After moving to Central Virginia (American Hardwood Forest Country) I noted that virtually every time I watched the pro's remove trees Stihl was first choice. Later I had two clients who earned their living with Stihl Saws. Now we live where the trees aren't as hard. Still when we hired a fellow to remove an old cottonwood stump, his Craftsman saw was useless, even after buying a new chain. They used my Stihl and made quick work of the tree, even asked if it was for sale. My kids borrow it every time they remove trees and large shrubs. I vote for Stihl, hey they are the Shopsmith of Chainsaws. Jimfredsheldon wrote:I'm planning on getting into bowl turning in a big way and will be looking to purchase a chain saw that will be capable of cutting large logs into blanks for all different sizes of bowls. I have been told that this saw would be a good choice assuming I get a rip chain to rip logs lengthwise.
Does anybody have experience with cutting their own logs both green and dried for bowl making and would this chain saw be up to the task?
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms311/
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
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wh500special
- Gold Member
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:42 pm
- Location: O'Fallon,IL
No argument from me about Stihl making some great saws.
But you can't go wrong with Echo either. They don't seem to enjoy the name recognition of Stihl, but they make great products across the board from saws, to string trimmers, to drills, pumps, etc.
Echo all the way.
Steve
But you can't go wrong with Echo either. They don't seem to enjoy the name recognition of Stihl, but they make great products across the board from saws, to string trimmers, to drills, pumps, etc.
Echo all the way.
Steve
Steve
O'Fallon, IL
Went from Shopsmith wannabe to Shopsmith nut in 6 months. Started with a Mk V 510 and now have more SS stuff than anybody should.
O'Fallon, IL
Went from Shopsmith wannabe to Shopsmith nut in 6 months. Started with a Mk V 510 and now have more SS stuff than anybody should.
Not an expert but don't overlook the chain. They will probably sell you a safety anti-kickback chain which won't cut as fast as a full chip chain. If you are going to do a lot of bowls, you will probably find yourself "noodling" at some point (think of it as ripping the log rather cross cutting it). You won't get very far noodling with a safety chain. A safety chain is a good learning chain and if you are cutting smaller logs and you can practice messing it up (sharpening it). Once you get the hang of it, get yourself a full chip chain and you will get the full potential out of the saw.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
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camerio
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 599
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 8:01 am
- Location: Valcartier, just north of Quebec City, CANADA
If available, check if there are some courses to learn how to use it properly and safely.
Safety equipment are also a must have
Hat with face screen and hearing protection included and leg protection as well to be added to the price of using a chain saw.
If you are not considering those safety, then give the job to someone who is protected and insured.
Loosing your hearing or your leg or receiving a limb on your head are accidents that happened quite often to the chain saw user.
It is always better to be safe than sorry.
Maybe you are not considering cutting a tree down right now, but later with the chain saw available to you, you might be tempted to try to do it.
Safety equipment are also a must have
Hat with face screen and hearing protection included and leg protection as well to be added to the price of using a chain saw.
If you are not considering those safety, then give the job to someone who is protected and insured.
Loosing your hearing or your leg or receiving a limb on your head are accidents that happened quite often to the chain saw user.
It is always better to be safe than sorry.
Maybe you are not considering cutting a tree down right now, but later with the chain saw available to you, you might be tempted to try to do it.
Camerio
MarkV 520 & Band saw
MarkV 520 & Band saw
Stihl is certainly a good choice - Sthil and Husqvarna are the two main choices for a good quality chainsaw and it's a bit of a Coke vs. Pepsi deal in terms of which are perceived as better. Stihl owners will preach the Stihl gospel and Husqvarna owners will do the same for Husqvarna. You can't go wrong with either but IMO I'd avoid any other manufacturers - it's not that there aren't folds with other types of saws (Echo, Poulan, Craftsman etc.) that are probably totally happy with their saws but IMO the Swedes know how to make saws (just ask a logger - I've never met one who didn't run one of these two saw types). I have a Husqvarna saw at work that I'm totally happy with and I have tons of other gas-powered toys from Stihl (brush cutters, weed whackers, gas-powered drill, cut-off saw etc.) - one feature Stihl has on all their stuff that I really like is the easy on/off gas cap - my Husqvarna requires a "skrench" saw wrench typically in order to remove the fuel sand bar oil caps - no big deal as a skrench is a mandatory tool to always have with you when running a saw but I like how Stihl designed their caps for easy tool-free removal. Anyway, go either way with these tow choices and you'll be pleased.
I'd suggest finding a saw shop or similar local gas-powered tool shop (i.e. a place that has someone who knows what they are talking about r.e. chainsaws) and go in and talk to them about your needs. There are a million different saw sizes, bar sizes, chain types etc. and they can help you find the saw to best match your needs. Also, chainsaws that see any level of use need to be sharpened regularly and should be serviced as needed as well, so having a local saw shop that can do these repairs for you or help you get the right tools/files and know-how to keep your chain sharp is a must - I'd advise buying your saw from a place like this even if it costs a bit more, as you'll appreciate the relationship with them for repair needs etc. over the long run.
Lastly, make sure to always use the proper oil-gas mix, buy good quality mix oil from the saw shop, always fill the bar oil whenever you fill the gas tank, and always mix your gas in small batches unless you are going to run the thing all the time (i.e. cutting a ton of firewood or you're a logger) - get a small gas can (1 gal max) and mix your gas in small batches, rather than let a can of gas sit around forever and then try to use it - your saw's carburetor will appreciate you. This is true of any gas-powered device (lawn mowers, weed whackers etc.) - not much worse for them them old, stale gas. Chainsaws are more forgiving than most devices but still smart to only mix what you need. One last thing, for any gas-powered toy, when you are finished with it for the season or otherwise it is going to sit unused for any length of time, drain the gas and then run it until it dies to get all the gas out of the system, or else put gas stabilizer in the tank (I personally prefer the first option - your machine will always start right up if the tank, fuel lines etc. were empty and then you add new fresh gas and prime as needed etc.)
I'd suggest finding a saw shop or similar local gas-powered tool shop (i.e. a place that has someone who knows what they are talking about r.e. chainsaws) and go in and talk to them about your needs. There are a million different saw sizes, bar sizes, chain types etc. and they can help you find the saw to best match your needs. Also, chainsaws that see any level of use need to be sharpened regularly and should be serviced as needed as well, so having a local saw shop that can do these repairs for you or help you get the right tools/files and know-how to keep your chain sharp is a must - I'd advise buying your saw from a place like this even if it costs a bit more, as you'll appreciate the relationship with them for repair needs etc. over the long run.
Lastly, make sure to always use the proper oil-gas mix, buy good quality mix oil from the saw shop, always fill the bar oil whenever you fill the gas tank, and always mix your gas in small batches unless you are going to run the thing all the time (i.e. cutting a ton of firewood or you're a logger) - get a small gas can (1 gal max) and mix your gas in small batches, rather than let a can of gas sit around forever and then try to use it - your saw's carburetor will appreciate you. This is true of any gas-powered device (lawn mowers, weed whackers etc.) - not much worse for them them old, stale gas. Chainsaws are more forgiving than most devices but still smart to only mix what you need. One last thing, for any gas-powered toy, when you are finished with it for the season or otherwise it is going to sit unused for any length of time, drain the gas and then run it until it dies to get all the gas out of the system, or else put gas stabilizer in the tank (I personally prefer the first option - your machine will always start right up if the tank, fuel lines etc. were empty and then you add new fresh gas and prime as needed etc.)