changing table height with auxiliary table, floating tables

[chrispitude]

Hi all,

I have yet to actually use my 520 for a project (hoping to start making sawdust this weekend!) but I have a basic question in the meantime.

I see that I can make some very impressive table arrangements, what with the main table, floating table, 5' tubes, shorty tubes, two floating tables, support legs, and whatnot. It's quite a sight to see! However, let's say the need comes along to cut some thicker stock, so I need to lower the table. What's the most efficient way to get everything else to follow suit? Do I need to remove the legs, remove the floating tables, pull the tubes out, lower main table, lower aux table, reinsert tubes, reattach floating tables and legs? Have you 520 pros learned some tricks to efficiently pull this off?

For that matter, how high above the workpiece do you typically want the blade to protrude? Does this rule of thumb apply equally to both cross-cutting and ripping? Can I bring the blade high enough up to cut a 2-by, and leave it there for general usage for thin pieces too?

Thanks!

- Chris

[dusty]

You have two choices as I see it.

1) Detailed advance planning being one. If you do this effectively, you can minimize the number of setup changes thus maximize the amount of "shop time" that you have available for real woodworking.

or

2) You can do like I do and just roll with the punches. I've gotten really good at setup and tear down and set back up.

There is one other not well recommended option which I also am inclined to do. I do run with the blade set a bit higher than the safety manual will recommend. I set up as though I was going to use the sliding cross cut table and what ever the thickest anticipated stock is going to be. That way, if I do use the cross cut table the blade cuts deep enough.

The down side I believe is obvious. Without the cross cut table, the blade is "over exposed". I rely on the upper blade guard, "good common sense", and attention to detail.

Like I have said here before - "Life is full of hard choices". "If you make the wrong one - you pay the price and the price is really high".

Yes, once you tie those tables together with either the short or the long tubes, changing main table height necessitates a table tear down and rebuild. Plan, plan, plan and then rebuild as necessary. I love it.

[chiroindixon]

I'm like Dusty and set it with the blade high. And leave it there....

Tearing down and setting up is much, much faster with the use of "stop collars" on all the tubes....main table, and both my extension tables.

Easy tear downs....Disconnect vac hose, pull top saw guard. Pull the pipes, lift tables off. All will go back on and line up when stop collars are used. Tubes slide in perfectly.

Just a change of blade or sanding disc easy. Off the top guard and vac hose...slip out pipes....crank up main table and slide to left. Change tool.....slide table back to right and crank down to height set by stop collar. Lock carriage....pipes in, and tighten. Back on with guard and vac.

Voila....NASCAR pit stop and tool change.

Doc....

[dusty]

Man does that sound fun. I never thought of doing it like a NASCAR Pit Stop. Oh, I know why. This old man can't move that fast and I have to stop for a potty break anyhow. An old worn out prostate and bladder you know. That equipment hasn't held up at all like my Shopsmith.

I just take a half hour to make the change and all other required chores and then get on with making sawdust.

[osx-addict]

...
Tearing down and setting up is much, much faster with the use of "stop collars" on all the tubes....main table, and both my extension tables.

Doc --

Is the thought that by using stop-collars adjusted to the proper height, the tables can slide in and be seated on top of the stop collars and be at the perfect height (whatever that is) in relation to the other tables? If so, I might need to get some of them -- perhaps 3-4 or more (how many do you use per table -- I'm guessing 2)? I don't suppose you've got a photo of how you use them?

[a1gutterman]

..................I see that I can make some very impressive table arrangements, what with the main table, floating table, 5' tubes, shorty tubes, two floating tables, support legs, and whatnot. It's quite a sight to see! However, let's say the need comes along to cut some thicker stock, so I need to lower the table. What's the most efficient way to get everything else to follow suit? Do I need to remove the legs, remove the floating tables, pull the tubes out, lower main table, lower aux table, reinsert tubes, reattach floating tables and legs? Have you 520 pros learned some tricks to efficiently pull this off?..............

- Chris

Yes.

That is one thing about the ShopSmith that is very much weaker then a stand alone table saw.

[a1gutterman]

..................There is one other not well recommended option which I also am inclined to do. I do run with the blade set a bit higher than the safety manual will recommend. I set up as though I was going to use the sliding cross cut table and what ever the thickest anticipated stock is going to be. That way, if I do use the cross cut table the blade cuts deep enough.

The down side I believe is obvious. Without the cross cut table, the blade is "over exposed". I rely on the upper blade guard, "good common sense", and attention to detail..................

Dusty,

You will do this, and yet, for safety reasons, you won't play a radio in your shop? Having a stand alone table saw, I am able to, and always do, set the blade to a height just above my wood, for safety reasons.

As posted by dusty on this thread: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1183&page=3&highlight=radio

TV or Radio while working with power equipment

Thank you, charlese. You have pointed out the errors in my thinking. There certainly is no difference between listening to a radio in my workshop and having a television in there. One is no more or less a distraction than the other.

I have now seen the light and have relocated the radio from the shop to the nearby covered patio. If I want to listen to country music, I will take my ice tea to the patio and relax there in a lounge chair.

Life is too short to deliberately live it unsafely.

You should put the radio back in the shop: You can't hear it anyway, when you turn the saw on!

[reible]

Hi,

In case you want the TUBE COLLAR as they are called in the manual or as COLLAR ASSEMBLY when putting in this part number 501439 at the part search. They are on sale for $2.31 but not currently available. If you want to find them they are with the tail stock information.

While you are at it pick up the adjustable stop collar 555937. I wait for year for this to come out and when it did I couldn't get to the phone fast enough to order it. I think Nick did a video showing it??? Anyway you NEED one if you don't have one. Sale price $15.99.

I like to do a minimal setup and only add all the extras if needed either for safety or for finer woodworking. Everything I take out and put on I have to put back at the end of the day. When you run out of gas as you get older a quick glass of ice tea doesn't do much to recharge you anymore...

Yes I change heights of the table(s) depending on what I'm cutting but I find that either "floating" things or pulling tubes works well. Most of what you do comes with learning and doing it over and over. I have a lot of tricks in my bag and often use them. When I first upgraded it was a bit confusing but after one season it seems like I have always been doing it this way.

BTW the old pit crew isn't what it once was...

Ed

[charlese]

Hi all,
"...I see that I can make some very impressive table arrangements, what with the main table, floating table, 5' tubes, shorty tubes, two floating tables, support legs, and whatnot. It's quite a sight to see! However, let's say the need comes along to cut some thicker stock, so I need to lower the table. What's the most efficient way to get everything else to follow suit?...

...For that matter, how high above the workpiece do you typically want the blade to protrude? Does this rule of thumb apply equally to both cross-cutting and ripping? Can I bring the blade high enough up to cut a 2-by, and leave it there for general usage for thin pieces too?"

Thanks!

- Chris

Chris - don't get fooled into thinking it is a good thing to make and keep an impressive formation of the Mark V tables, unless you need it!

Usual sawing of 3/4" - to 1" stock is done on my saw with a saw height of about an inch and a quarter. This height is good for both riping and cross-cutting. Irregardless of the decrease in safety as the blade gets higher, let's think of the angle of attack between the board and the saw. The higher the blade - the steeper angle of attack and the higher probability to rip/chip the bottom of the board. A steeper blade attack is also harder on the interior cells/grain of your wood. If you allow the saw to attack the board at a lower angle, both the board and your product (Board) will thank you!

As to adjusting the vertical movement of the tables, I have found that most pieces can be handled quite nicely by the main table alone or with only the main and extension table. In the latter configuration, you can use your table connector tubes to keep the tables aligned. Here's how - With the tables aligned at one height, loosen the extension table's clamp. Now move the main table down or up as desired. Do this slowly and the extension table will follow, with very little manual help, provided the extension table's support legs are well waxed and slide smoothly in their base.

When you have a need for the other tables, for larger boards, they will be in your shop, available for use!

About the adjustable stop collar - I use one only. I use it whenever I need a specific height of blade - or for this setting to be replicated. For general cross cutting and ripping it isn't used. It is also used in drill press position to control the movement of the table and rip fence.

Just recently, I was sawing tenons. The height of the blade was set at 3/16" above the table. I was able to raise the table, slide the headstock over to the band saw, then back again to achieve the same depth. Also I left the rip fence in its position so the length of the tenons to their shoulder could be (and was) replicated. I was even able to remove the saw blade and put it back on and still replicate the cut.

Summary - There are all kinds of possibilities with the Mark V. Don't limit yourself with only one set up!

[osx-addict]

Just recently, I was sawing tenons. The height of the blade was set at 3/16" above the table. I was able to raise the table, slide the headstock over to the band saw, then back again to achieve the same depth. Also I left the rip fence in its position so the length of the tenons to their shoulder could be (and was) replicated. I was even able to remove the saw blade and put it back on and still replicate the cut.

When my wife saw that the table could be lifted up and scooted over she thought that was pretty slick (this was when we went to purchase our used one).. I'm always impressed by the interesting ways you can use this machine!