kicks the breaker

markflow · Post by **markflow** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:50 pm

He specialized in motors and he tested the starting coils and checked the motor inside and all was great... and there is a couple of reciprocals on the same breaker but nothing is plugged into them....the motor does not run hot with the belt off and i can hear the starting switch click and no humming at all from the motor its running smoothly...that is what I cannot understand

markflow · Post by **markflow** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:52 pm

That a problem the vent cover is missing off my unit

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:04 pm

OhhhhKaaaayyy
So you have had the motor checked by a reputable repair shop and that is a good thing. There several things a motor shop can check.
startup current
current draw with the motor free running
current draw with the motor loaded
and actual horsepower developed at a given current.

Have you or the motor shop actually opened the motor and cleaned the interior. There is an item on the motor shaft called the fan sheave. The sheave pulls air into the motor and blows it across the stator windings in order to cool them. If the air passages are blocked with sawdust this can cause an overheat condition. I have noticed during several tests that the windings get warm in a short period of time without the fan sheave in place. Compressed air is an important and useful tool for repairs.
At this time I would remove the motor belt again and run the motor with no load for at least 20 minutes and see how warm it gets. Turning only the shafts should not put enough load on to kick the breaker.
IMHO I think that the breaker should be replaced as a precaution. Breakers work on a thermal and spring mechanism where current through a bi-metal strip causes the strip to get warm and bend causing the mechanical trip. The bi-metal strip, over time, can become weak and trip prematurely so try to eliminate that possibility.
If you can get a clamp on ammeter try to check the actual current draw with the machine running normally and watch it for 20 minutes. It should not go over about 13 amps to 15 amps except on startup.

In any case let us know what you can find out
BIll V

PS
Vent cover missing will not create this problem. Can actually help cure it!!!

markflow · Post by **markflow** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:09 pm

Thanks all for the advice I will take the belt back off and run it again for 20 min and see what happens and will let you know ...thanks once again

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:49 pm

Ok, no vent plate.

So, what color is it?

A pix would help!

markflow · Post by **markflow** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:52 pm

Ok here it goes I took the belt off and let the motor run free for 20 minutes and the motor got just a little warm nothing really to talk about not like earlier....

markflow · Post by **markflow** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:55 pm

Its green in color

markflow · Post by **markflow** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:57 pm

I am new here how do i post a pic ....

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 9:02 pm

markflow wrote:Ok here it goes I took the belt off and let the motor run free for 20 minutes and the motor got just a little warm nothing really to talk about not like earlier....

While the belt is off, determine how easily the quill shaft turns by hand. It should not offer very much resistance with the belt off(free wheeling!).

If that be the case, reinstall the belt and reset(manually turning the shafts) the speed to slow. Turn on and again observe motor temp.

One thing that has not been answered is if the 'professional' opened the motor. If so an internal wire may be rubbing etc..

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 9:04 pm

markflow wrote:I am new here how do i post a pic ....

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=114