SS Pin Router VS. Pro Fence Router Vs. the SS Router Table Kit.

[chrispitude]

To be sure, the OPR is the router chuck and clear guard that attaches to the arbor in drill press mode?

you know, this thing

If so, I have one of those but I've actually been thinking about somehow getting a router table sort of thing too. My reasoning was with roundover bits. With a roundover bit sticking out of a table, you can run the edge of any size stock against it and it'll work. With the overhead router, you need to adjust the height. Granted, it's not a difficult thing given the quill adjustment, but it's prone to normal human error, and I have plenty of that to go around.

Edit: after watching Nick's video, the OPR appears to be something else which uses a real router.

- Chris

[qtndas01]

Don't underestimate the PC690 router. It is under rated at 1 1/2 HP and compares to 3 Hp router I have. The only drawback on the 690 is that you cannot vary the speed. I have made many raised panels with the 690 and a big horizontal bit and it handles the large bit very well.

[chiroindixon]

I swapped out my Bosch routers for PC 890 which will fit into 690 series bodies. Plenty of power....and the versatility with the 690 hardware is practical.

PC ( or suppliers ) have many more after market products that bolt straight up to PC series, another reason I traded. Bosch, although quality, can be a bear to match.

I really like Bosch.....but after looking at my options and variability, I sided with PC. Look closely at your choices.

Doc

[charlese]

I didn't post what kind of router I have, because frankly, I couldn't remember the number. Oh Well!! It is a PC 890. The only modification I had to make to the OPR was to sand a slot in the dust shield. This allows me to use the push button lock to do one wrench bit changes. I can also do two wrench changes if the mood strikes.

Now I've got to call BUNK!! to the claims that you need higher HP routers to make raised panels. There are always more than one way to skin a cat and more than one way to rout raised panels. In one case I used a 1/4" shafted core box bit to make the panels. (pix below- at least the set-up) Some bit manufacturers, noting the dangers involved with the larger diameter bits, made vertical panel raising bits. These are narrow, longer bits that allow using smaller HP routers.


P,S. This operation was done before Nick showed us how to make a sliding table. If I do this again the bit will be below the table in the slot of the sliding table where it should be. In this operation the clamps are to allow for the hold-down bar.
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[pinkiewerewolf]

This is an awesome forum.
Ed, you've been doing your homework. And I agree the OPR would be an incredible tool in the arsenal. Kudos on such thorough research, that is an impressive list of pieces to build that router system.

Chuck, does the sled mount into the T-Slots of the main table like the SS sled?

Mike sent me some pictures of a stand alone OPR, very cool tool to say the least.
Thanks again for all the advice!

[charlese]

Pinkie - The best info. on the sliding table is in Sawdust Session #4.

[ricknwood]

Good Morning Pinkie and the rest of you fellas, I thought it was about time I sang in on this debate.
I respect those of you that have or like the OPR, but hear is my reasoning why in my 40 or more years of professional woodworking that I nor any of my contemporaries have never owned one.

1. Because I have worked in the trades, cabinets, furniture, architectural and home building, I have always needed to have several tools set up at the same time. With the Pro system it enables me to have my pro planer, jointer, table saw and router table set up all together. This is the normal configuration that I have my shop. This allows me to 4 square my material with the jointer and planer, do any ripping, cross cutting on the table saw and the million things that a router table can do. With the OPR, I can only have one thing set up. Lets say I am doing some stop trim. I sure don't want to run a 1/4" x 1/4'" piece of materal across a router bit so here is the process. I purchase material say 3/8" x 11" and plane it down to 1/4" to make sure I have a good surface. Then I run one of my edge grains over the jointer to get a flat smooth surface. Then I run this wide safe piece across my router table and get my molded edge. Then I take and rip it to the 1/4' wide. Then back to the jointer to take out the kerf marks I have just made ripping and the back to the router table and the table saw and so on. I' sure you get the picture. This logic applies to so many aspects of what I do that the OPR would not work for me. Doors, drawers, architectural interior and furniture all require many tools to be accessible simultaneously.

2. If you are using an OPR and doing any type of profile, your material has to be exactly the same thickness or the profile will be different. Let's say you go to the lumber yard and buy 3/4" material to make some molding. 3/4" can mean two different things. Most hobbiest's want 3/4" to be 3/4" while a cabinet shop expects it to be 13/16" so they have 1/16" to sand or do whatever. Now you get your material home and discover that you have two different thickness's. If you have a planer, no prob, but if not you will have to either return some material to the yard or have two different set ups. That doesn't work for me.

3. I can do any duplication with the pro system that can be done on a OPR by just making a template and using a flush cut bit to duplicate.

I could go on and on but I think you get my view. This is not meant to offend anyone, just providing information so you can make an informed decision.

With all respect,
Rick Davis
Traveling Academy Instructor

[charlese]

Hi Rick! You are right on! (usually are!) I really love my OPR, but there is that one thing! - - When it is in use, other Mark V functions are not immediately available for use. The exception being; horizontal positioning of the OPR and use of the jointer, bandsaw, belt sander at the other end. This gives some slack in the OPR's ability to be used with other functions. That said, most of us are hobbyists and really don't have the need for quick movement between machines. This goes back to the old discussions of what is best, multiple tools or a single Mark V.

[charlese]

As an addendum to post # 24 Thought I'd add a couple of photos showing the resulting raised panel and the bit used to make it. Once again, a lower powered router will work!

The horizontal positioning of the OPR is more clearly seen in a third pix. There is an ability to still use the SPTs with the headstock.

The first pix shows the 1/2" core box bit with the hold down removed - the second shows one of the raised panels.
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[james.miller]

Charlese, did you have the router bit above the surface of the table? It's hard to tell exactly where the router bit is from the pictures as they are not close ups. My concern is safety. My impression after watching Sawdust Session was that the router bit should be under the surface of the table with the cutting edge exposed, for safety, so the work piece doesn't get caught and thrown back.