Quill Spring replacement
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jasonsabala
- Gold Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 7:01 am
- Location: Eugene, OR
Quill Spring replacement
So I ordered a new quill spring and housing for my greenie from SS. I even got the old, broken one removed. Sad thing is, I see no way to secure the end of the spring to the shaft of the quill.
If I slide the housing on, the quill spins inside the spring without loading tension.
Am I missing something?
Thank you,
Jason Sabala
If I slide the housing on, the quill spins inside the spring without loading tension.
Am I missing something?
Thank you,
Jason Sabala
You should have a pin on the quill feed shaft. On the spring itself, there's a hole and notch that fits over that pin. You might need to use a pair of needle nose pliers or something to manipulate the spring to hook it on the pin.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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jasonsabala
- Gold Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 7:01 am
- Location: Eugene, OR
That might have been your problem all along. Someone else more knowledgeable than I should chime in here, but I'm not sure that is repairable. You might need to replace the quill feed shaft.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Or maybe you could drill, tap, and put a screw in place of the pin?
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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jasonsabala
- Gold Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 7:01 am
- Location: Eugene, OR
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
It would be easier to replace the quill feed shaft, although repairing is 'possible' although fraught with pitfalls.
A suitable replacement pin would be needed.
The old pin would need to be drilled out.
The old pin is at least case hardened.
The shaft is probably softer.
Holding it to do all that.
. . .
Then there is 'attaching'!
A suitable replacement pin would be needed.
The old pin would need to be drilled out.
The old pin is at least case hardened.
The shaft is probably softer.
Holding it to do all that.
. . .
Then there is 'attaching'!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
jasonsabala wrote:hmmm. That sounds exciting. I wonder how far the pin is supposed to protrude from the shaft.
Or maybe I can drill out the pin somehow and replace it?
I thought I was almost finished with the headstock...
The head of the pin is proud of the shaft just enough so the spring can slip under the head.
If you are seriously considering replacing the pin, I would recommend getting an end mill bit to do the pin removal. It would need to be smaller than the pin shaft od.
A v-block vise.
The pin is a a 'drive screw rivit'.
It must be tightly wedged into the shaft hole and driven in to the correct head projection above the shaft surface.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
Speaking of springs, on one of my 10ER's the end of the spring where the hole is broke off. How does one go about replacing the spring? Or do you just replace the housing with spring already installed. How do you rewind the spring if you were to remove it. Or is that even possible
I don't see any problem with the spring not working other than in drill press mode it might take more effort to raise the quill. Since I'm going to use it as a lathe and Jig saw it won't be an issue I don't think. Am I missing anything here?
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
fredsheldon wrote:Speaking of springs, on one of my 10ER's the end of the spring where the hole is broke off. How does one go about replacing the spring? Or do you just replace the housing with spring already installed. How do you rewind the spring if you were to remove it. Or is that even possibleI don't see any problem with the spring not working other than in drill press mode it might take more effort to raise the quill. Since I'm going to use it as a lathe and Jig saw it won't be an issue I don't think. Am I missing anything here?
You are missing a key hole in the end of that spring.
Yes it is possible to pull the spring out of the housing.
It may even be possible to create a new hole.
Yes they can be reinserted back into the housing.(I did not say you would have any religion remaining when done).
Ask Dusty how to get it back in!:D:D:D:D:D:rolleyes:
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange