Hello all,
As the refurbishing job continues with my '56 Shopsmith, I've found the quill feed assembly needs some work. It's all gummed up and a bit rusty, so I'd like to disassemble it for cleaning and evaporust treatment.
Is it a really, really bad idea to disconnect the coil spring and remove that housing? There appear to be very few how-to's on this subject, and I'm wondering why that is...
Also, is the feed gear soldered or otherwise permanently attached to the shaft? I don't see any fasteners or pins, and I do see an area of discoloration on the shaft that looks like excess solder flowed out and was cleaned up.
billmayo wrote:Buy a used quill feed assembly that has the spring already hooked and working. Contact me if you are unable to find one.
I have been unable to successfully drill/remove a broken pin and install a new one. The new pin would always pull out after a few tries. It is not worth the effort as used ones are fairly cheap. Rehooking the spring can be a problem and can cause damage to your fingers if you are not careful. Drilling a hole all the way through the shaft and tapping the hole for a screw did work but was a lot of work.
Cavediver wrote:Hello all,
As the refurbishing job continues with my '56 Shopsmith, I've found the quill feed assembly needs some work. It's all gummed up and a bit rusty, so I'd like to disassemble it for cleaning and evaporust treatment.
Is it a really, really bad idea to disconnect the coil spring and remove that housing? There appear to be very few how-to's on this subject, and I'm wondering why that is...
Also, is the feed gear soldered or otherwise permanently attached to the shaft? I don't see any fasteners or pins, and I do see an area of discoloration on the shaft that looks like excess solder flowed out and was cleaned up.
Thank you
The quill feed is a "can-do" but be prepared for a struggle. Sometimes it just seems to fall in place and other times it fights you all the way but it can be done. If you cuss, do this task when you are alone.
I believe there is no written procedure to follow because no one manages to do it the same twice. Shopsmith published very few detailed procedures to do anything other than alignments (operational procedures).
You can remove the quill feed assembly and clean it without disassembling the spring housing. I would start with that as the plan and then proceed from there.
The worst that can happen equates to the cost of a new quill feed assembly. That is not likely to be the outcome.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Does anyone see an issue with opening the spring housing by 1/8-1/4", hosing it down with some type of cleaner / degreaser, and then flushing it with a protective spray or wash? I'm thinking carb cleaner followed by CLP or something similar.
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The gear is permanently attached to the shaft by being cast around it.
I would remove the spring, but then I am inclined to do dumb things in the name of 'completeness'.
If the spring is not rusty, your suggested procedure is likely adequate.
The reason for the lack of 'how to's' is the possibility of not being able to get it back into the spring housing. I have found the 'key' to getting the spring back under the 'pin' is the shape of the slotted end of the spring. It needs to slightly wedge under the head. I also after getting the spring started into the housing, then slip the end onto the shaft and using the shaft etc. as a grip to tighten the spring into the housing.
When disassembling, take note of the orientation of the domed washer and the serrated washers.
If you need reassembly procedure help I will search out my threads on that.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Good info.
I guess I'm going to give the easy way a shot. I'm a little concerned that the shaft is lightly rusted where it enters the spring housing. If this causes binding I'll disassemble the whole thing and keep my fingers crossed...
I may also dunk it in evaporust after degreasing. I'd rather not since the evaporust can get sticky after it evaporates, but maybe a second session with carb cleaner will help.
A little oil now and then will 'cure' the 'surface' rust(eventually).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Cavediver wrote:Yeah, but why wait when I can damage some machine parts, raise my frustration level, and possibly injure myself?
You jest but you can easily do all of those things. Be careful if you are going to remove the spring. It is under tension and it is sharp. It has the characteristics required to make you remember for quite some time.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:You jest but you can easily do all of those things. Be careful if you are going to remove the spring. It is under tension and it is sharp. It has the characteristics required to make you remember for quite some time.
I do, but only a bit.
I tried to fix a tape measure once.
Once.
I was looking at that thing last night and thinking to myself that it probalby wasn't too hard to do. When I think that, I've usually missed something, so I set it down for the night and asked today. I'm glad I did.
Thanks all for the help. I'll be back with the next round of Q's next week!
