I have a problem getting the fence parallel to the blade on my 510 extension table. I can align it parallel to the blade on one side of the main table or the other, but not in both. If I align it in the left foot and then move the extension table to the right foot, the fence is toed out about 1/16" at the rear of the table. If I align it in the right foot, when I move it to the left foot, it's toed out 1/16" at the rear of the table. The fence aligns perfectly on the main and floating tables. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Brent
Aligning 510 Extension Table
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- curiousgeorge
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 880
- Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Hi, Brent. Check out Sawdust Session for Feb 9th at:
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm
Nick shows you how to align the Aux. table so it works on either end of your MkV.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm
Nick shows you how to align the Aux. table so it works on either end of your MkV.
George
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Aligning 510 Extension Table
tnerb
George gave you the right answer - follow his recommendation and you will have the table alignment that you are seeking.
But think about it. You say that your floating tables align properly. How do you align the floating tables? You don't. You attach them to the main table using the rails and tubes. They get aligned naturally by mechanical attachment.
When you do what is recommended in the Sawdust Session - you will be doing exactly the same thing. The tables get aligned by mechanical attachment to the main table.
Aaah, but there is one more step. Now you have to attach the extension table base without adversely effecting the alignment that has already been completed. The key - move nothing. Tighten the bolts/nuts that secure your extension table to the extension table base per the instructions in the video and you are there. A perfectly aligned table set.
About the only things that can screw this up are 1) assembly of the tables with bent tubes or rails or 2) assembly with the wrong spacers behind the table tubes.
George gave you the right answer - follow his recommendation and you will have the table alignment that you are seeking.
But think about it. You say that your floating tables align properly. How do you align the floating tables? You don't. You attach them to the main table using the rails and tubes. They get aligned naturally by mechanical attachment.
When you do what is recommended in the Sawdust Session - you will be doing exactly the same thing. The tables get aligned by mechanical attachment to the main table.
Aaah, but there is one more step. Now you have to attach the extension table base without adversely effecting the alignment that has already been completed. The key - move nothing. Tighten the bolts/nuts that secure your extension table to the extension table base per the instructions in the video and you are there. A perfectly aligned table set.



About the only things that can screw this up are 1) assembly of the tables with bent tubes or rails or 2) assembly with the wrong spacers behind the table tubes.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
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- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 5834
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
One thing I would add to this discussion. If you using an old aux table, one where the table is bolted to the legs I would modify it to act like the new aux tables. The new table has studs with two sets of nuts and washers. Instead of bolting the legs to the table with the new style you use the studs and nuts and washers to hold the table to the legs.
The conversion is easy, go to your local hardware, or big box store (Home Depot or Lowes) and get a 12 inch length of 3/8 threaded rod and some 8 nuts and washers I think it is a 16 thread. Cut the rod into four equal pieces and screw them into the table. Now put a nut and washer on each stud. Put the legs back on and then the final washer and nut.
Then follow the procedures Nick Demo's in the forementioned video. It works!
Ed
The conversion is easy, go to your local hardware, or big box store (Home Depot or Lowes) and get a 12 inch length of 3/8 threaded rod and some 8 nuts and washers I think it is a 16 thread. Cut the rod into four equal pieces and screw them into the table. Now put a nut and washer on each stud. Put the legs back on and then the final washer and nut.
Then follow the procedures Nick Demo's in the forementioned video. It works!
Ed
Thanks Curious George, Dusty and Ed in Tampa. I do have the old style table that bolts directly to the posts. Today I re-aligned it to the right side of the main table so the fence was parallel. When I moved it to the left side of the table it was still off by the same 1/16" at the rear. I did correct that by loosening the leg assemblie at the connector tubes ad tweaking the rear towards the center slightly. Voila.... the fence was and is now parallel on both sides. Thanks for your input guys. I was thinking about buying the studs and extra nuts if this fix didn't work.
For you guys who are upgrading older machines to the 510 or 520, carefully read Ed's advice. The old method of alignment required the use of thin washers and shims to get the extension table aligned. It was such a tedious...dare I say practically impossible method. I was never able to achieve satisfactory alignment. By all means do it the new way!
As Ed said you can easily make your own 3/8" x 16 studs from threaded rod. The only thing that I would add, is to obtain 3/8 jam nuts from your local hardware store. They are 1/10" thinner than the standard nut, giving you a little more adjustment room under the extension table. If you can't find jam nuts I will send you some.
As Ed said you can easily make your own 3/8" x 16 studs from threaded rod. The only thing that I would add, is to obtain 3/8 jam nuts from your local hardware store. They are 1/10" thinner than the standard nut, giving you a little more adjustment room under the extension table. If you can't find jam nuts I will send you some.