Bandsaw Blade Tracking Adjustments Etc.

algale · Post by **algale** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:16 pm

dusty wrote:Three degrees is not very much so I may have the same twist and have never noticed it. Remember, the cool blocks are there for a purpose and maybe this is it. This could also be the reason why you lower the guides down close to the work. When set up properly for a cut, there is very little separation between upper and lower cool blocks.

Hmmm. Ya think?

I really don't think I have that sort of twist with the 5/8" blade but I'll look.

The following show my "twist" when not tensioned and then when tensioned. Alignment is different as indicated by the grooves in the table. But I can change that by moving the table. I'm going to leave it alone for now.

[ATTACH]20648[/ATTACH]
No blade tension at all.

[ATTACH]20649[/ATTACH]
Blade fully tensioned.

1. Did you take any angular measurements of the twist before or after applying tension?

2. Is the difference between the twist in the first and second photos only tension? Or in the second photo did you also use the cool blocks to coax the blade into alignment? I found that I could use the cool blocks to compensate for the twist and got it to about 1 degree of twist but I don't think that's how the cool blocks are supposed to be used.

3. A factor not discussed in this thread until your post concerns alignment of the table to the blade. I know I had aligned the table to my old 1/4 inch, but I have recently replaced the rubber tires with urethane and in the process I removed both wheels from the saw. I did not perform an alignment of the table after doing so and it is conceivable something has moved and that it is simply more obvious with the larger 5/8 inch blade. I am going to remount my 1/4 inch blade and check more carefully for any twist of the 1/4 inch blade. If there is, I will realign my table and then try the 5/8 inch blade again.

Al

caleb · Post by **caleb** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:47 pm

that is pretty much what I do to get it to cut straight but because the twist is so great my shopsmith kreg fence can't adjust that far.

when you put the new blade in did you back of the cool blocks so the blade can move freely?

or did you adjust them in after putting the blade on and before turning the wheels?
the sense I got from SS when I suggested that the cool blocks could be used to counter act the twist she suggested that they are not intended to do that and that If I wanted to do that I should try my old metal blocks, which I don't understand the reasoning behind.

I have not measured the twist of the blade but I will try at lunch time and show photos.
The other thing that has baffled me is that SS said I should not put the dual bearings under the table. there is a reason she just couldn't remember why, if it was intended to have them it would have come that way. I still would like to know why.

I noticed that using the cool blocks as a way to get the blade straight is an option but that creates heat and is starting to turn the teeth on my blade blue. and how can one acurately set the upper and lower cool blocks and the same position with out twisting the blade again??

algale · Post by **algale** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:34 pm

caleb wrote:that is pretty much what I do to get it to cut straight but because the twist is so great my shopsmith kreg fence can't adjust that far.

when you put the new blade in did you back of the cool blocks so the blade can move freely?Yes, and I had 3 degrees of twist toward the operator's left.

or did you adjust them in after putting the blade on and before turning the wheels? I did later adjust them and pushed the blade to 1 degree of twist.
the sense I got from SS when I suggested that the cool blocks could be used to counter act the twist she suggested that they are not intended to do that and that If I wanted to do that I should try my old metal blocks, which I don't understand the reasoning behind.Unsure, although I suspect it is because the metal blocks can apply more force to twist the blade and not wear as fast as the cool blocks.

I have not measured the twist of the blade but I will try at lunch time and show photos.
The other thing that has baffled me is that SS said I should not put the dual bearings under the table. there is a reason she just couldn't remember why, if it was intended to have them it would have come that way. I still would like to know why. No ideas on this one.

I noticed that using the cool blocks as a way to get the blade straight is an option but that creates heat and is starting to turn the teeth on my blade blue. and how can one acurately set the upper and lower cool blocks and the same position with out twisting the blade again??Yes, it is not the way it is supposed to be.

Hi Caleb,

Assuming you are requesting information on my post, I put my responses above in red.

Alan

caleb · Post by **caleb** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:38 pm

algale,

Thanks for your replies.

I am still in conversations with SS I will try to find out the dual bearing under the table question.

Thanks.

caleb · Post by **caleb** » Thu Mar 21, 2013 12:29 pm

SS is out of ideas as to what is causing this. I can't remember who suggested it but I am going to buy another blade not from ss and see if the issue goes away. I am doubting it will.

and if all else fails I am just going to run the dual bearing setup.
the response SS CS got from engineering was it shouldn't have to there for it is not supported ( I am paraphrasing)

so thanks to all for your help I will keep you posted as new discoveries arise.

Caleb

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Mar 21, 2013 12:52 pm

caleb wrote:SS is out of ideas as to what is causing this. I can't remember who suggested it but I am going to buy another blade not from ss and see if the issue goes away. I am doubting it will.

and if all else fails I am just going to run the dual bearing setup.
the response SS CS got from engineering was it shouldn't have to there for it is not supported ( I am paraphrasing)

so thanks to all for your help I will keep you posted as new discoveries arise.

Caleb

If they are referring to the dual backup bearing, I agree. It should not need to be there but there does need to be a backup bearing.

The blade also should not twist like yours does but apparently they had nothing to say about that.

If you are buying a new blade, I would recommend the Wood Slicer from Highland. Why? Because mine works great. It provides a nice clean cut and there is NO TWIST even when resawing almost 6" wide lumber.

caleb · Post by **caleb** » Thu Mar 21, 2013 1:16 pm

My Question to SS was why wouldn't you put the dual bearings in it just seems smart to give the blade a little extra support from side to side. wouldn't that make for more accurate cuts.

algale · Post by **algale** » Thu Mar 21, 2013 6:39 pm

I'll be watching to see if you get less twist by switching blades.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Mar 21, 2013 6:51 pm

caleb wrote:My Question to SS was why wouldn't you put the dual bearings in it just seems smart to give the blade a little extra support from side to side. wouldn't that make for more accurate cuts.

It wasn't their idea therefore they don't support it.

In other words - If something goes wrong, don't blame us.

I have two blade saws. One is equipped with dual bearings and the other with a standard Shopsmith configuration of bearings. I will say that there is no real difference in performance between the two. They perform equally well and are equally noisey.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:42 pm

dusty wrote:It wasn't their idea therefore they don't support it.

In other words - If something goes wrong, don't blame us.

I have two blade saws. One is equipped with dual bearings and the other with a standard Shopsmith configuration of bearings. I will say that there is no real difference in performance between the two. They perform equally well and are equally noisey.

I think they would if there was truly room for the double bearings without a bunch of 'other' hardware etc. They did come out with the rear guide bearing 'update'.

IMO, there is not sufficient room with standard bearings. Yes I have replaced my single bearings, but I do not think that the 'modifications' are viable for SS to implement across the board.

I predict a new blade will not cause the 'twist' to go away. I would start with new upper wheel bearings(or wheel)!