Quill bearing replacement methods?

[Cavediver]

I've got a replacement quill bearing for my '56 Shopsmith. The original bearing (Fafnir 202whatever) required a puller for removal, but it wasn't difficult. The replacement bearing (6202-ZZ/C3 by RB Tech) is not going onto the shaft.

I can place the old bearing on a table and press the quill into it a little ways, at least enough to get it started (all parts at room temp). I cannot do this with the new bearing, even after freezing the shaft. In fact, it's not even close.

I do not have precision measurements of the parts at this moment; I'm taking my mic and calipers home this evening and will provide measurements at that time. In the meantime, am I missing something? Am I overlooking some vital installation tip? Do I have the right bearing?

ARRRRGGGGHHHHH!!!

There. I feel better.
Almost.

[dusty]

You have the right bearing according to my notes. I have never replaced one so I do not speak with authority.

Again, my notes indicate that bearing should be a 202KDD5 C1 (6202-RS-5/8") which should measure 5/8"x35mmx11mm unless you have a two bearing quill.

If a two bearing, my notes say 6003ZZ for the inner bearing (17mmx35mmx10mm) and for the outer bearing a 6002ZC3 (15mmx32mmx9mm).

[nuhobby]

It sounds like Cavediver has a Fafnir 202KDD-"no suffix" bearing, same as "metric" size 6202z. This all-metric one has a smaller I.D. than the 202KDD5 which dusty lists, having a 5/8" English I.D.

The cheapest place for a 202kdd5 size (metric/english combination) may well be Shopsmith: p/n 502962.

[Cavediver]

It is indeed a single bearing quill, and the original was a 202KDD5 (don't know about the C1 designation).

Looking at a few charts, a true 15mm ID bearing is .5905" which is .034" too small...

DOH!

I guess that's what I get for not cross-checking my numbers.

OK, new bearing time.

[terrydowning]

Don't feel bad, same thing happened to me.

[Cavediver]

Don't feel bad, same thing happened to me.

I still feel bad, but at least I'm not alone ]bearing list[/URL] from mickyd's "Everything Mark V", to whom would I address that suggestion? I can't seem to find a list of moderators.

•Quill - Single Bearing (Gilmar & Poly-V): 6202 ZZ 5/8"Quill - Double Bearing (Poly-V): 6002 ZZ and 6003 ZZ

The fact that you need a 5/8" version of the 6202 is written, but in my opinion it's not really clear that there's a difference between a 6202 (standard 15mm ID) and a 6202 with 5/8" ID. I interpreted it to mean that the 6202 would fit the 5/8 quill end.

Of course, if it's just Terry and I, I'll skip it

[billmayo]

I current have available double bearing Gilmer quills that I machined and added the second bearing. These are listed on Ebay most times and I thenm available at home. Less quill shaft runout with the double bearing quilll.

[Culprit]

And to answer the other part of Cavediver's question, freezing the shaft is only half the answer. I have also found it helpful to set the new bearing on top of a bare lightbulb for a few minutes to heat it up. Of course you need a real, incandescent bulb and not one of these new, expensive, mercury-filled CFL's.

I think it was someone here on this forum that gave me that tip a couple years ago, but I don't remember who.

[Cavediver]

I ordered a new bearing, this time with the correct id
It arrived yesterday; I pulled the quill from the freezer and was able to install the bearing with a small mallet and a deep well socket (to keep the force on the inside race). Piece of cake

[billmayo]

I current have available double bearing Gilmer quills that I machined and added the second bearing. These are listed on Ebay most times and I thenm available at home. Less quill shaft runout with the double bearing quilll.

I received from my machinest friend today a new shipment of Gilmer and Poly-V quill housings and shafts that have been machined for a spacer and a second bearing. I should have them listed on Ebay (billstoolz) by the weekend.