OFT that Adjusts with Main Table
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- dusty
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OFT that Adjusts with Main Table
Here is a different approach to creating an OFT that tilts and/or changes height along with the Main Table.
This is just a concept. There would be no support leg with this configuration. The support members could be either wood or aluminum.
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The front and rear rails are not shown because I could not create them easily in Sketchup. Maybe later. This same approach could be used with either a 510 or 520 table.
This is just a concept. There would be no support leg with this configuration. The support members could be either wood or aluminum.
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The front and rear rails are not shown because I could not create them easily in Sketchup. Maybe later. This same approach could be used with either a 510 or 520 table.
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- A Main Table with OFT that Tilts (Custom).png (39.24 KiB) Viewed 2198 times
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- dusty
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wasatch wrote:This is where an ultra-lightweight outfeed table design would work best.
I have two pieces of black 1/2" foam board that was rescued from a dumpster. In their previous life it they were displays in a mall. They are quite rigid and might work. My doubt has been whether or not they would hold the weight that would be there at the outer edge of the OFT.
I also have not decided how they could be attached to the table brackets. Screws won't hold.
Furthermore, the concept has evolved just a little bit with the thought of reducing weight.
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The long pieces of wood will probably further evolve to aluminum angle.
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- A Main Table with OFT that Tilts version 2 (Custom).png (41.83 KiB) Viewed 2189 times
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Dusty,dusty wrote:I have two pieces of black 1/2" foam board that was rescued from a dumpster. In their previous life it they were displays in a mall. They are quite rigid and might work. My doubt has been whether or not they would hold the weight that would be there at the outer edge of the OFT.
I also have not decided how they could be attached to the table brackets. Screws won't hold.
Furthermore, the concept has evolved just a little bit with the thought of reducing weight.
[ATTACH]20723[/ATTACH]
The long pieces of wood will probably further evolve to aluminum angle.
Would 1/2 Baltic Birch be too heavy for the size you have drawn? Also, what about a hinge of some sort just on the main table side of the rear attachment area that would let each protruding arm fold away so the table could collapse out of the way without taking it completely off? Possibly some sort of adjustment mechanism at the far end of the support arms (under main table) that would allow tweaking of the OFT front to back?
If you use the first design maybe have open sided holes that go over the front rail bar with a catch under the support arm that captures the rail bar tightly. That would make the OFT much easier to install than having to stab holes in front and back at the same time.
I like the concept! Even the though the OFT might need to be a bit smaller.
Jack
- dusty
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claimdude wrote:Dusty,
Would 1/2 Baltic Birch be too heavy for the size you have drawn? Also, what about a hinge of some sort just on the main table side of the rear attachment area that would let each protruding arm fold away so the table could collapse out of the way without taking it completely off? Possibly some sort of adjustment mechanism at the far end of the support arms (under main table) that would allow tweaking of the OFT front to back?
If you use the first design maybe have open sided holes that go over the front rail bar with a catch under the support arm that captures the rail bar tightly. That would make the OFT much easier to install than having to stab holes in front and back at the same time.
I like the concept! Even the though the OFT might need to be a bit smaller.
Jack
I have used baltic birch on a previous version and it works well. The only exception might be for someone who has serious limitations on what they can lift.
That same previous version has an attachment mechanism that hooks over the rear extension rail and is very easy to remove and reinstall. I have posted several pictures in other threads that show that.
Both that version and this (if this turns into an OFT) will drop down and hand on the back side of the Mark V.
A smaller table is certainly an option]a link[/URL] though not the one I was thinking of.
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- Ed in Tampa
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Dusty
If you remember a few years back I sent you some doc on a infeed/outfeed table much like the one you picture in the first post of this thread.
A guy built a one using aluminum u channel and it laid on the connector tubes and it supported both an infeed and outfeed table. Slick design.
The tables themselves were not connected to the rail but laid on them using pins to locate and hold them. You stored two table top, I think they were 1/2 ply and two rail aluminum about 6 ft long what had some wood blocks attached to hold the table tops and connect to the connector tubes.
If you remember a few years back I sent you some doc on a infeed/outfeed table much like the one you picture in the first post of this thread.
A guy built a one using aluminum u channel and it laid on the connector tubes and it supported both an infeed and outfeed table. Slick design.
The tables themselves were not connected to the rail but laid on them using pins to locate and hold them. You stored two table top, I think they were 1/2 ply and two rail aluminum about 6 ft long what had some wood blocks attached to hold the table tops and connect to the connector tubes.
Ed in Tampa
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- dusty
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Ed in Tampa wrote:Dusty
If you remember a few years back I sent you some doc on a infeed/outfeed table much like the one you picture in the first post of this thread.
A guy built a one using aluminum u channel and it laid on the connector tubes and it supported both an infeed and outfeed table. Slick design.
The tables themselves were not connected to the rail but laid on them using pins to locate and hold them. You stored two table top, I think they were 1/2 ply and two rail aluminum about 6 ft long what had some wood blocks attached to hold the table tops and connect to the connector tubes.
Yes, this design is Earl Morton's. He is a member here but has always been more active over at SSUG.
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Dusty
Supposed you made the outfeed/infeed table(s) out of a grid to which you attach something like 1/4" plywood or 1/4" hardboard? You would have the strength you need between the angle irons but without the weight.
Supposed you made the outfeed/infeed table(s) out of a grid to which you attach something like 1/4" plywood or 1/4" hardboard? You would have the strength you need between the angle irons but without the weight.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
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1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
- dusty
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I think 1/4" hardboard would work for the vast majority of tasks but occasionally I push something through that is heavier and might exceed the capacity of the hardboard. Think 1" MDF ripped into 4" wide pieces. This doesn't happen often but it does (has) happened.anmius wrote:Dusty
Supposed you made the outfeed/infeed table(s) out of a grid to which you attach something like 1/4" plywood or 1/4" hardboard? You would have the strength you need between the angle irons but without the weight.
But, maybe a cross member beneath the hardboard to provide that support would do the trick.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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