JPW vs Turtle/Carnuba/Mothers

[pieceseeker]

My question is: On non-essential parts not needing lubrication, isn't it as good or even better to use a car wax for mainly rust protection?

Don't want to use all my coveted JPW.

[Ed in Tampa]

Be careful grasshopper there is silicon in many waxes.

Seriously I have tried many waxes an frankly they didn't to the job. However I will say there is something better than wax for parts like the bench tubes (bottom bars on the SS). You may have missed it but a long while ago we discussed the virtue of Flood Penetrol Paint Conditioner. It is liquid that is intended to added to paint, However used by itself it forms a perfectly clear protective finish on most metal.

I dip wrenches, pliers, and most anything in it or paint it on. I painted a test patch on my outside air conditioner and I ended up replacing the air coditioner before the finish wore off and that was in Florida sun.

If you use it on a surface like a table saw table it will wear off through use however on the lower tubes of my Shopsmith it has protected them for years and years and I have never had one spot of rust.

I tell the story of pair of pliers I had that I had treated with the stuff. The Grandkids visited and the pliers were lost. I found them a years or so later outside and they looked like the day they were lost. Shiney and bright.

HomeDepot sells it and costs about $10 a quart and quart should last you a long long time.

[reible]

Hi,

I'll second Ed's Penetrol use for a lot of things. It seems to work really well and it goes a long way. I had not heard of it or used it until Ed did a posting on it and once I tried it I became a believer.

If you want to stay with the wax then Minwax paste wax, trewax paste and butcher's wax come to mind. Most furniture wax with carnauba wax will be good.

Shopsmith has sold several waxes for the machines over the years, JPW is just one of them. I'd stay away from car wax, per shopsmith instructions.

Ed

[pieceseeker]

Be careful grasshopper there is silicon in many waxes.

Seriously I have tried many waxes an frankly they didn't to the job. However I will say there is something better than wax for parts like the bench tubes (bottom bars on the SS). You may have missed it but a long while ago we discussed the virtue of Flood Penetrol Paint Conditioner. It is liquid that is intended to added to paint, However used by itself it forms a perfectly clear protective finish on most metal.

I dip wrenches, pliers, and most anything in it or paint it on. I painted a test patch on my outside air conditioner and I ended up replacing the air coditioner before the finish wore off and that was in Florida sun.

If you use it on a surface like a table saw table it will wear off through use however on the lower tubes of my Shopsmith it has protected them for years and years and I have never had one spot of rust.

I tell the story of pair of pliers I had that I had treated with the stuff. The Grandkids visited and the pliers were lost. I found them a years or so later outside and they looked like the day they were lost. Shiney and bright.

HomeDepot sells it and costs about $10 a quart and quart should last you a long long time.

Thanks a lot! I'll be looking for that shortly.

[pieceseeker]

Hi,

I'll second Ed's Penetrol use for a lot of things. It seems to work really well and it goes a long way. I had not heard of it or used it until Ed did a posting on it and once I tried it I became a believer.

If you want to stay with the wax then Minwax paste wax, trewax paste and butcher's wax come to mind. Most furniture wax with carnauba wax will be good.

Shopsmith has sold several waxes for the machines over the years, JPW is just one of them. I'd stay away from car wax, per shopsmith instructions.

Ed

Not even on the painted surfaces??

[db5]

I bought a can of JPW in 1958 and used almost the last of it seven years ago but not before I bought two cans of carnuba wax for $1 at a closeout in an auto parts store. Because everything was changing and they were focused on autos they didn't know what they had. If you can find any, buy it. I will sell you a can of mine for. . .Actually I will sell one but the shipping will drive up the cost to above $15.

I checked on the price of the JPW I bought in '58 which was still on the top along with the date. It was $1.47. But it lasted 50 years.

Damn! They don't make things like they used to do; even people.

[reible]

Not even on the painted surfaces??

I don't wax the painted parts but hey that is just me.

BTW there are no wax police so do what you want on non contact surfaces.

Ed

[pieceseeker]

I kinda like surfaces with at least a sheen to it. I was figuring that what Nick would describe as a harder wax (car wax), it would protect painted surfaces a little better.

I've still got plenty of JPW. By the looks of my tables, the previous owner wasn't religious about keeping surfaces looking new, and so used very little of a full can of wax.

[dusty]

I kinda like surfaces with at least a sheen to it. I was figuring that what Nick would describe as a harder wax (car wax), it would protect painted surfaces a little better.

I've still got plenty of JPW. By the looks of my tables, the previous owner wasn't religious about keeping surfaces looking new, and so used very little of a full can of wax.

It has been my experience that if you wax the painted parts of your Mark V they become dust magnets. To see what I meant, wax just one leg of your Mark V and shine it up real nice.

Now that this is done - work in the shop for about a month - normal routine.

Pay attention to the dust that collects on the legs of your Mark V.

[Cavediver]

In addition to JPW, I've started using paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits. During restorations, I dip smaller, odd shaped parts in the jar and then let them dry. The mineral spirits will evaporate, leaving a protective coating of wax on the entire part. It's no better than the paste wax, but it's a lot easier to apply in certain cases.