Bandsaw Blade Tracking Adjustments Etc.

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caleb
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Post by caleb »

Ok so I couldn't get a new blade but I did go to my neighbors house and put my blade on his SS bandsaw. And it didn't twist, however I also noted that the blade wasn't touching his auto track bearing not even his 1/4 blade was. So still no idea.:D
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

caleb wrote:Ok so I couldn't get a new blade but I did go to my neighbors house and put my blade on his SS bandsaw. And it didn't twist, however I also noted that the blade wasn't touching his auto track bearing not even his 1/4 blade was. So still no idea.:D
May not be the blade then.:confused:

Autotrack Bearing - one on the left. Blade should always contact the autotrack bearing as a result of the upper wheel cant.

Upper and lower guide bearings (the ones on the right) open for discussion.
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eartigas
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BS alignment ideas

Post by eartigas »

caleb wrote:My Question to SS was why wouldn't you put the dual bearings in it just seems smart to give the blade a little extra support from side to side. wouldn't that make for more accurate cuts.
I suggest to have a look at this video. It is made by Carter but does not refer to using Carter guides and has some good pointers on how the BS works and can/should be aligned. Be open minded and watch it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

Good luck
Ed
Carmel, NY
saminmn
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Remember that SS bansaws do not align like others!!

Post by saminmn »

eartigas wrote:I suggest to have a look at this video. It is made by Carter but does not refer to using Carter guides and has some good pointers on how the BS works and can/should be aligned. Be open minded and watch it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

Good luck
It is a good video, but the SS band saw alignment does not function the same as other band saws. He talks about tension adjustment being related to where the blade rides on the wheel top in his first point. IIUC This concept is not for SS band saws!
Sam in Northfield, MN
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

saminmn wrote:It is a good video, but the SS band saw alignment does not function the same as other band saws. He talks about tension adjustment being related to where the blade rides on the wheel top in his first point. IIUC This concept is not for SS band saws!

Neither is the gullet bottom tracking on the center of the tire, The lower 'backup' bearing 'just clearing the back of the blade, nor the tension indicator varying with blade length.

I find the tension adjustment/blade positioning for different size blades 'interesting'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
eartigas
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Post by eartigas »

I know the SS Bandsaw is different and the wheel can't be adjusted but I wonder where in the wheel the blade rides? I have to open mine and look.

A point I took that I never actually did, but I should, is to remove the table to work the alignment.

For me the video was educational albeit the known SS differences. I am tempted to buy a stabilizer... : )) and keep one bandsaw with a narrow blade and another for resawing with the SS supplied guides.
Ed
Carmel, NY
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

I know that you tried YOUR blade on your friend's machine and it was OK. Did you try HIS blade on your machine? If the problem stays with YOUR machine then I would suggest the machine is the problem.
Try to clean the machine with compressed air and inspect carefully for any cracks in the main casting or other stress points where strains are generated by tensioning the blade. Do this with the blade under tension.
Strange problem indeed.
Bill V
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

eartigas wrote:I know the SS Bandsaw is different and the wheel can't be adjusted but I wonder where in the wheel the blade rides? I have to open mine and look.

A point I took that I never actually did, but I should, is to remove the table to work the alignment.

For me the video was educational albeit the known SS differences. I am tempted to buy a stabilizer... : )) and keep one bandsaw with a narrow blade and another for resawing with the SS supplied guides.
Back of blade about 1/8" in from the edge of the tires on "A", 3/16"(upper) and 1/16"(lower) on "B". So 1/8" +- 1/16".(?) Sample size = 2.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
eartigas
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Post by eartigas »

JPG40504 wrote:Back of blade about 1/8" in from the edge of the tires on "A", 3/16"(upper) and 1/16"(lower) on "B". So 1/8" +- 1/16".(?) Sample size = 2.
Thanks for the info. I shall check mine hopefully this weekend if it does not rain and I can put my SS out in the driveway.

I had a rough return from Pastaland; I arrived with half of my face paralized but the studies did not show anything wrong and a virus is blamed. I am really needing some sawdust therapy!

Ed
Ed
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caleb
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Post by caleb »

how is your face did you get it all fixed up?
My boss had this and he is on the mend from it.


Caleb
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