Attaching Molding

mountainbreeze · Post by **mountainbreeze** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 3:50 pm

I'm giving it a go with my first large project - a chest of drawers for our bedroom. If all goes well, I'll continue with another chest for the wife along with a headboard and end tables. So far, so good. The case is done and the drawers are next.

I need some help with how to attach the molding on the side panels. I'd like to avoid nails so I thought gluing them in place would be the best approach but clamping is impossible and I want to avoid squeeze-out. Two things I thought of were CA glue and molding/trim glue so that the pieces could be held in place for a short period of time. Can anyone shed some light on the best approach to attach this molding?

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beeg · Post by **beeg** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 4:01 pm

Ditch the CA glue and use the molding/trim glue.

berry · Post by **berry** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 5:44 pm

I had that question question in this thread
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... noacrylate
I'm unsure if there is a right answer but after considering the responses I ended up using medium CA glue. It was easy and effective. I held it in place for 10 seconds and it was up.

Note: in my project the panel was plywood.

ryanbp01 · Post by **ryanbp01** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:04 pm

I know you don't want to use nails, but have you considered using a pin nailer? The pins aren't as long as brads and are practically invisible.
BPR

mountainbreeze · Post by **mountainbreeze** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:22 pm

One of the tools I'm missing in my shop is an air compressor so pin nailing is not an option.

So, one vote for SA glue and one vote for trim/molding glue. Anyone else?

joedw00 · Post by **joedw00** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:47 pm

Use the trim/molding glue and tape it until it dries?

putttn · Post by **putttn** » Wed Apr 03, 2013 9:44 pm

I've use FastCap 2P10 on some projects. It worked well for me and was very easy to use.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Apr 04, 2013 8:48 pm

Hey there, Bill (mountainbreeze) - I wanted this thread to not go on any longer without congratulating you on that carcase! A beautiful job!

I'm interested in your drawer fitting. Are you are planning on installing drawer guides on the inside of the side panels. Will the drawers simply be "fitted"? or will you be installing metal glides.

I can't be of any help in attaching molding, as I use a pin nailer on my stuff. Sorry!

WmZiggy · Post by **WmZiggy** » Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:28 pm

Dittos on the molding glue with blue tape till set. Dittos too on a great looking chest of drawers in quarter sawn oak.

mountainbreeze · Post by **mountainbreeze** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:50 am

charlese wrote:Hey there, Bill (mountainbreeze) - I wanted this thread to not go on any longer without congratulating you on that carcase! A beautiful job!

I'm interested in your drawer fitting. Are you are planning on installing drawer guides on the inside of the side panels. Will the drawers simply be "fitted"? or will you be installing metal glides.

I can't be of any help in attaching molding, as I use a pin nailer on my stuff. Sorry!

Thanks for the kudos.

Glad you asked about the drawers. I have a few concerns about them.

I'm following the plans in the latest edition of Woodsmith magazine pictured below. The drawers are inset and as such must fit the opening perfectly. This is my first concern since the plans call for a 1/16" clearance around the perimeter. I am a retired engineer and I tend to be more accurate than is typically necessary in woodworking but I'm not sure I can hit the 1/16" clearance on 7 drawers - especially since the openings are not perfectly square. They are close, but not exact.

The drawer guides (items OO and PP in the drawing) are made from hard maple (as are the sides of the drawers). There is a set of two runners with rabbets cut in them that the drawer sides ride on. No center guide. The thickness of the runners will have to be milled such that they lift the drawer the exact height required for the upper/lower clearance. They will also have to be attached to the case such that the left/right clearance will be exact. The plans call for 1/32" clearance between the guide and the side of the drawer. Yet another target to hit at the same time when attaching the guides.

A final concern I have is the longevity of the guides. Will the wood wear over time thus affecting the fit of the drawer in the opening. Time will tell I suppose.

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