What Makes It Noisey

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:16 pm

For noise defferences, I suspect drive belt condition, the amount of control sheave slider wear on the shaft and key/keyway, and of course other wear (duh!):rolleyes:

I know when I temporarily used a Gates drive belt, the machine was a lot noisier.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:58 pm

A v-belt running on vaned pulley sheaves that themselves slide on the shafts cannot possibly run 'quietly' unless no slop and very smooth surfaces..

Add a splined quill shaft driven by a poly-v belt driven by that vaned sheave(idler) and more noise.

I agree that drive belt condition and sheave surfaces are relevant to amount of noise.

What surprises me is a worn gilmer drive(sample of one) seems to be quieter.

But then I did 'dress' the sheave surfaces with a file.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 11:23 pm

I believe most of the headstock noise is from the V-belt operating over the sheaves. I found the DC motor conversion I did was very quiet.

I have been refacing the sheaves to remove any scratches, nicks and worn areas, not to reduce any noise or vibration. The worn areas can be deep with grooves. I have to reject about 10% of the sheaves. Never really thought about noise or vibration as a reason to reface the sheaves as I have done this for years. It also makes the sheave vanes look good. Some headstocks can be quite loud at times. I find I have to try different motor belts some times to reduce vibration and noise at certain speeds. V-belts can have more effect on vibration and noise than most people would believe. The Gilmer or Poly-V belt tension also effects the noise and vibration levels. I find playing with these 2 areas helps me to reduce noticeable noise and vibration.

WmZiggy · Post by **WmZiggy** » Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:53 pm

I thought of that after I wrote it. Vibration is tricky business to address, just ask the people who build airplanes.

transplanted · Post by **transplanted** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:27 am

One thing I noticed on my 510 that drove me crazy until I found it, was the knurled thumb screws that secure table / extension tubes to the saw. A few weren't tight and they rattled. Tightened them up and buzz/rattle stopped.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:34 am

transplanted wrote:One thing I noticed on my 510 that drove me crazy until I found it, was the knurled thumb screws that secure table / extension tubes to the saw. A few weren't tight and they rattled. Tightened them up and buzz/rattle stopped.

To that list add the knob (lower saw guard) that secures the riving knife (upper saw guard) .

WmZiggy · Post by **WmZiggy** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 9:18 am

I suppose if we worked all the rattles out in the midst of new found quiet we would long for the good ol' days when SS rattled like a Model 'T'.

nil · Post by **nil** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:43 am

When I got my new mark 7 I found it was noisier than expected.

It turned out the jointer connection was rubbing up against the side so I just needed to move it away from the sides.

You can imagine my first reaction when a new machine made so much noise.

Culprit · Post by **Culprit** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 12:19 pm

My A headstock Gilmer machine runs quieter and smoother with a PowerTwist Link Belt than it does with a V belt.

swampgator · Post by **swampgator** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:30 pm

Culprit wrote:My A headstock Gilmer machine runs quieter and smoother with a PowerTwist Link Belt than it does with a V belt.

I would love a pic of that. Can you show?:)