stuck speed control

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imeasyjones
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stuck speed control

Post by imeasyjones »

I just bought a 1959 Greenie, for a great price, with a note that it "needs a new motor." When plugged in, the motor hummed and the shafts tried to turn. I unplugged, oiled the sheave shafts and tried again. It moved a little but not much. I removed the drive belt, and as suspected, the motor is fine. The drive belt appears old, but is right at 1/2 inch wide. With the drive belt reinstalled, the motor tries, but will not turn the shaft. My second problem is that the speed control is really stuck, i.e. will not move in either direction, with the motor running momentarily, or whenturning the shaft by hand witht he sanding disc. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance; I have been reading the forum for a week or two and am really impressed. My first shopsmith was in 1980 (which I let get away); I bought a 510 with many accessories a couple of months ago, and now this greenie.
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terrydowning
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Post by terrydowning »

Setup in drill press position
Remove the belt cover and motor pan
perform a liberal lubrication manually moving all of the sheaves in and out. Reattach the motor pan and set the belt then let it sit over night in the drill press position.

Try again.
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.

1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

terrydowning wrote:Setup in drill press position
Remove the belt cover and motor pan
perform a liberal lubrication manually moving all of the sheaves in and out. Reattach the motor pan and set the belt then let it sit over night in the drill press position.

Try again.

THAT may be much easier said than done. Especially the floating sheave on the motor shaft.


IIWM, I would remove the speed control to enable 'getting' at the control sheave(Speed control is much easier to lubricate/check in hand also). The drive belt can then be removed out of the way also.

You will be amazed at how easily those sheaves move when adequately lubricated(and waaay more amazed at how stuck they can be when not:rolleyes:).
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
imeasyjones
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Post by imeasyjones »

will do. tx for the comeback.
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terrydowning
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Post by terrydowning »

JPG40504 wrote:THAT may be much easier said than done. Especially the floating sheave on the motor shaft.


IIWM, I would remove the speed control to enable 'getting' at the control sheave(Speed control is much easier to lubricate/check in hand also). The drive belt can then be removed out of the way also.

You will be amazed at how easily those sheaves move when adequately lubricated(and waaay more amazed at how stuck they can be when not:rolleyes:).
You my be right on this.

Just going through my normal lube procedures as I don't have an access hole on my machine. As long as the idler is not stuck, I can move the idler in and out with hand pressure.
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.

1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g

Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
imeasyjones
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Post by imeasyjones »

On that note, actually, after lubing the sheave and removing the drive belt, and opening the keeper loop on the spring to do so, I was able to move the speed control sheaves back and forth and the spring loaded sheaves on the motor shaft as well, being careful to not let it go to fast against the fixed sheave on motor shaft. Does this info affect either of your answers re the speed control? thanks again
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

We have not 'yet' addressed the speed control itself. Usually the sheave lubrication creates lack of speed control.

So stuck control it is!:(

Step one would be to remove it and examine it in hand.

I speculate the worm gear is jammed in the quadrant gear(porkchop).

A bent worm gear is possible.

A shaft stuck is less likely, but possible.

Bad gear on the control dial is possible.

Pull it out, post pix and we will know the next step.;)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
imeasyjones
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Post by imeasyjones »

I will do that next. BTW, do you think the stuck speed control (whatever caused it) would account for the first problem; i.e. that the motor does not turn the shaft..it wants to, but just cant get it going?
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

[quote="imeasyjones"]I will do that next. BTW, do you think the stuck speed control (whatever caused it) would account for the first problem]

I do not think so.

How easy is it to turn the shafts by hand(motor not connected)?

FWIW, the 3/4 hp motor prefers starting at slow.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
imeasyjones
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Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2013 5:39 pm

Post by imeasyjones »

freely, considering the other belt is still on. I was trying to change the speed to slow, when I discovered it was "frozen".
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