Main Table Out of Alignment -need help

[shealyl]

JPG....

Right thanks...I assumed the height so really I guess there are 6 locking points!!! I appreciate your advice and if after trying to align the miter slots one more I cannot get it I think I will drill.

[Ed in Tampa]

One think you might check and I think this is something I fixed and never really thought about it until much later. Make sure that there is nothing between either trunnion the table surface and make sure that all three the hole in the trunion, the bolt and the washer are free of burrs or catches.

I think I had some junk between my trunion and my table and I think one of the holes had a nick which I filed smooth.

I think Dusty is right I think you can align the table without drilling however before I convinced myself of that I went ahead and drilled mine to 1/2".

And be careful, I'm the one the other Ed was talking about when he mentioned someone getting injured. I swore I had my trunion clamped in such a way that I could control it. However I was wrong the drill bit stuck and the trunnion/clamp/holding jig all got torn from my hands and began to spin but not before it soundly smacked my thumb. That was 4 or 5 years ago and my thumb still hurts. Careful Careful Careful.

Check and double check and check again that your trunnion can not come loose if you decide to drill. WOW did that hurt!

[shealyl]

Good thoughts. I will check all the things you recommend. Also I tried calling Shopsmith today but was on hold for 20 minutes and had to hang up. I will try calling them again tomorrow and see what they have to say. Roger on securely clamping down the trunion if I decide to drill.

[JPG]

I gave Dusty an opportunity to tell you his starting point for adjusting, but he declined, so here it is.

Rotate the table to vertical. Pretend you are about to 'raise to drill press position.

Now loosen all four table screws.

Lower the table all the way down until the table edge rests on the way tubes.

Snug up the screws, return to normal table aligning position and check alignment. It should be very close.

[dusty]

Main Table Alignment, Saw Mode

What is the objective? Position the table so that the miter slots are parallel to the blade.

What precision level is required? Required being the operative word. I propose that 1/64" (.015625") is accurate enough to be safe and good enough for most wood working tasks. However, I strive for .005" on this set up.

How thick is a typical thin kerf blade? Mine measures 3/32" and I think that is typical.

With the table all properly aligned, where is the blade located in the table cut out? This is hard to answer because there are a couple variables. Quill position, carriage position, table tilt are three that contribute significantly.

Zero all of these and lock in position before attempting an alignment.

The answer that I expect is the left side of the blade is on the center line of the table insert. Somewhat centered in the cutout.

How far apart are the miter tracks and where is the table insert with respect to the miter tracks. The miter tracks are 7" apart and the table insert is centered therein. This positions the "left" side of the blade on the centerline (3 1/2") and the right side of the blade 3/32" further to the right or or 3 13/32" from the right hand miter slot.

So what you are attempting to do is position the table so that that left side of the blade is 3 13/32" away from the right hand miter slot and parallel to that miter slot.

With that in mind, why would this not be an ideal tool to use?

[ATTACH]20952[/ATTACH]

Just loosen all four trunnion bolts, position the alignment tool in the right hand miter slot, align the jig with the back edge of the table, lower the table for maximum blade exposure, position the table so that the jig is just flush against the blade, hold it there and secure the trunnions. Slide the jig back and forth in the miter slot while observing separation between the blade and the jig. It should be constant with no drag. Alignment is done.

EXCEPT: One small issue that could be eliminated at this point. Where is the center of the main shaft (front to back) with respect to the main table? The back edge of the table is 8 55/64" back from the center of the drive shaft (the blade arbor).

[ATTACH]20953[/ATTACH]

[dusty]

Dusty....

Yes my small hoel is rear left. As for squaring my miter gauge to the blade I use my Starett combination square against the blade and move my miter fence to 90 degrees. I use a Wixley to ensure table is 90 degrees to the blade. Never thought of using the Wixley for the miter fence, but thats a good tip.

Drilling out that one hole (all four then = 1/2") will give you about .3° more movement (wiggle room if you will).

Without drilling any holes larger, you have about 1.5° of movement. This should be enough. But drilling the one hole larger will allow ° of movement.

[shealyl]

All,

Using everyones advise I tried to align my miter slots again and still cannot get closer than 10-12 thou. I talked to Shopsmith tech support today and they verified that the current model of trunions all have 1/2 holes (no more 3/8 holes). If I send in my rear trunion to Shopsmith they will re-drill the 3/8 inch hole for 1/2 inch. I also looked at a new trunion costs which is $38. I think I will send in my rear trunion and let Shopsmith re-drill the 3/8 hole it for 1/2 inch so it matches the current trunion set-up. I think this will make my alignment problem easier than what I am dealing with now. Does anyone think this is a really bad decision?

[JPG]

All,

Using everyones advise I tried to align my miter slots again and still cannot get closer than 10-12 thou. I talked to Shopsmith tech support today and they verified that the current model of trunions all have 1/2 holes (no more 3/8 holes). If I send in my rear trunion to Shopsmith they will re-drill the 3/8 inch hole for 1/2 inch. I also looked at a new trunion costs which is $38. I think I will send in my rear trunion and let Shopsmith re-drill the 3/8 hole it for 1/2 inch so it matches the current trunion set-up. I think this will make my alignment problem easier than what I am dealing with now. Does anyone think this is a really bad decision?

Not I!!!!!!!!

[dusty]

All,

Using everyones advise I tried to align my miter slots again and still cannot get closer than 10-12 thou. I talked to Shopsmith tech support today and they verified that the current model of trunions all have 1/2 holes (no more 3/8 holes). If I send in my rear trunion to Shopsmith they will re-drill the 3/8 inch hole for 1/2 inch. I also looked at a new trunion costs which is $38. I think I will send in my rear trunion and let Shopsmith re-drill the 3/8 hole it for 1/2 inch so it matches the current trunion set-up. I think this will make my alignment problem easier than what I am dealing with now. Does anyone think this is a really bad decision?

A bad decision? No, not at all. The only down side is that you will be without the machine for the time required.

I do hope that when this has finally been done, your alignment will proceed more easily and with greater success than now.

I have already stated that I believe alignment should be possible without drilling but your experience as stated here is contrary.

Side Comment: I do find your converstion with Shopsmith to be interesting. They are willing to drill it out and they acknowledge a requirement for all four to be the same size (1/2"). I also find it interesting that you have a trunnion with one of each (1/2" and 3/8").

My trunnions with 3/8" holes had both undersized.

[reible]

I think sending it in to be done is a fine idea. Yes you will be without your machine for a few days but if the adjustments are going poorly you probably weren't going to use it anyway.

BTW if you add your location, state or town kind of thing you might find that you have a fellow shopsmith owner quite near. Like if you were in driving distance from me I'd be willing to do the drilling free of charge and you could take it back home done. Just saying, people here are more then willing to help out.

Ed