Beall 3-On Mandrel Buffing System

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maxwell
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Beall 3-On Mandrel Buffing System

Post by maxwell »

Good day,
I've owned my VERY used ShopSmith for 10 years. It had no serial # plate, so I can't date it exactly, but it's a rough gray, so I'm guessing c. '84. It'd already been upgraded w/ polyV belt and dbl. bearing quill. My only eBay purchase, it was in GREAT shape, all specs. were w/in tolerances and greased to prevent rust. Included were the scroll and band saws, the belt sander, planer, and joiner. A slew of parts and all manuals, plus all orig. accessories and tools. As a hobby-guy, I make a variety of woodworking stuff (pens, cabinetry, furniture, crafts) and have no set schedule or production 'pressure'.
I've lurked and learned on this forum for years, and have recently been enjoying Nick's video productions (kudos to SS for hiring this VERY talented woodworker and teacher)! I also peruse other popular woodworking sites and subscribe to their mags, as well.
The Beall 3-On Mandrel Buffing System is a 3/4 inch steel mandrel with a #2 Morse taper-drive on one end and a cupped end on the other to accept a cone center. I bought one from WoodCraft (and can still return it) to see if I (or some of you) can figure how to SAFELY drive the thing on our SSmiths.
The ends are too large (5/8 inch) to put into the drill chuck, or I woulda already been polishing my fool head off. After chatting with SS tech support (very helpful in the past) and the folks at Beall, I understand there are no adapters available nor in R&D (no big surprise there...) I have not the tools to turn a half inch tenon on the morse taper end, but I could take it to a local machine shop to do that (pricey, tho).
I own a 4 jaw chuck (I'm starting to turn bowls) and I'm wondering what y'all think of this idea. I chuck the morse taper end into the jaws of the chuck using a leather or rubber 'liner'. This liner would prevent metal to metal contact (I don't wanna crack of goof-up any parts, certainly.) And, as the chuck will only grip a small section of the taper, it might spread the clamping pressure of the jaws to a sufficient level.
Well, what do ya think? Am I full of sheep-dip? (I know y'all will be brutally honest.) Yes, I know I can get the 3 separate buffs from Beall and run them off the belt sander, or headstock, but I'd like the luxury of saving myself the change-outs.
Thanks for all past information, and I hope, future!
ldh
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Post by ldh »

Maxwell,
Post a pic of the mandrel without the buffing wheels so all can get a good look at the shaft. I am sure you will get several answers to the problem. This SS group is quite innovative.
ldh
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

With a close up of each end please.:)
Tim

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fjimp
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Post by fjimp »

I truly hope someone has a solution. I bought one of the Beale Polishing Sytems about 18 months and and it is gathering dust in it's box. Jim :mad:
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)

When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
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a1gutterman
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The race is on!

Post by a1gutterman »

ImageWho will give us close up's of the ends of that Beall bar first? Here comes maxwell, followed close behind by fjimp. They're coming around the final corner, heading for the finish line, and the winner is.................
Tim

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fjimp
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Post by fjimp »

Tim,

I went to the storage unit a few minutes ago to look for it. Ha, This packing to help the house look empty and prepare to move thing is a royal pain. I have no idea where I packed it. Hopefully I will wake up in the night and remember where. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)

When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

I purchased mine from a local woodworking show and they actually sold a Shopsmith version. I have been searching for years and have never found a safe way to put a #2 Morse taper into a Shopsmith headstock.

I have contacted Beall over the years and they offer some of their stuff that correctly fits a Shopsmith but not everything. I wanted their collet for something I was turing and the only way to get it was to get an adapter from 5/8" to 1" 8 TPI and then use their standard collet.

I did find a source for that adapter but it was a Chinese import and I was warned about the quality from an owner and did not buy.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

Hi Jim,
Maybe by the time you get moved and settled in, someone will have the answer for all.Image
Tim

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billmayo
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#2 Morse Taper Adapter

Post by billmayo »

I would only use a #2 Morse taper to a #2 morse taper adapter. I would not try to modify any thing to hold the #2 morse taper as vibration will make it loose and very dangerous. I have used this one at slow speeds on the Shopsmith as the WTTools store is nearby.
http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/prod ... Collet_Set $18.95

I know I saw a 5/8" ID to #2 Morse Taper adapter somewhere in my searching in the past but could not find it today.

Bill Mayo
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

paulmcohen wrote:I purchased mine from a local woodworking show and they actually sold a Shopsmith version. I have been searching for years and have never found a safe way to put a #2 Morse taper into a Shopsmith headstock.

I have contacted Beall over the years and they offer some of their stuff that correctly fits a Shopsmith but not everything. I wanted their collet for something I was turing and the only way to get it was to get an adapter from 5/8" to 1" 8 TPI and then use their standard collet.

I did find a source for that adapter but it was a Chinese import and I was warned about the quality from an owner and did not buy.
Hi Paul,
If you read my posts, I am sure that you know how I stand on imports, especially those from China]http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/images ... /shrug.gif[/IMG]
Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
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