10ER Restoration Detour

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:18 am

I have a Craftsman Sliding Compound Miter Saw. I have done half lap joints with it. It has No dado capability and I would not attempt to put a dado blade on it as the guard is not wide enough.

Here is what I do

adjust depth of a cut 1/32 or so shy of the final cut depth (leave the line on it)

Make the left and right cuts that define the total width of the joint.

Make numerous kerfs in the waste in between to weaken the waste.

Break out the remaining waste with a hammer or mallet

clean up with a sharp bench chisel and pare the depth to the final dimension.

Same process can be done with hand tools as well.

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:21 pm

I've done the same thing with a handheld circular saw a few times.

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 1:54 pm

terrydowning wrote:I have a Craftsman Sliding Compound Miter Saw. I have done half lap joints with it. It has No dado capability and I would not attempt to put a dado blade on it as the guard is not wide enough.

Here is what I do

adjust depth of a cut 1/32 or so shy of the final cut depth (leave the line on it)

Make the left and right cuts that define the total width of the joint.

Make numerous kerfs in the waste in between to weaken the waste.

Break out the remaining waste with a hammer or mallet

clean up with a sharp bench chisel and pare the depth to the final dimension.

Same process can be done with hand tools as well.

That's basically what I did, except I made my kerfs overlap so no waste to break out. I'll clean up with sandpaper and file right before fitting up.

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:43 am

About 45% of the way there. I've got before pictures and progress pictures, but I'm going to wait to post them all at once with the finished product. My shop is just too terrible to not have something to say "but look at it now!" I dropped my tape measure and found the fenders and hood to a 58 Ford F100 that's how hairy it is back there!

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 12:04 pm

How tightly should a cross lap joint fit? I'm erring on the too tight side as I will be cleaning up and sanding/filing during assembly. Rough cut only is taking 2 or 3 whacks with a rubber mallet.

saminmn · Post by **saminmn** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 10:27 pm

frank81 wrote:About 45% of the way there. I've got before pictures and progress pictures, but I'm going to wait to post them all at once with the finished product. My shop is just too terrible to not have something to say "but look at it now!" I dropped my tape measure and found the fenders and hood to a 58 Ford F100 that's how hairy it is back there!

If your shop is big enough to hid most of F100 front clip you have gotta have twice the space I do

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Tue Apr 30, 2013 1:38 pm

Shelving is basically complete! I still need to cut and attach the planks for the top shelf but needed to clean the shop before doing that. Pictures to come tomorrow.

I now have room to move. However, useable workspace is still limited so I'm going to start the next phase this week - running a workbench off the shelving all the way to the front of the garage.

Phase 3 is pegboards.

Phase 4 is building wooden tool boxes that fit the dimensions under the workbench.

bobgroh · Post by **bobgroh** » Sun May 05, 2013 9:09 pm

These good ol' saws work great for dado'ing. In fact, it is probably the best way to get it done IMHO. Way back in the day (1960's) I used my uncle's to make a bookshelf - dado'ed for all the shelves. That bookcase (7 shelves, about 7 ft tall and 3 ft wide made of pine) is still in the family after spending time in college dorms and having many moves. The ability to set the height of the saw blade is the whole key. So if you find a good one, I would pick it. Have no idea of a good price - they don't have a lot of value today. Except to the user!

frank81 · Post by **frank81** » Wed May 08, 2013 11:06 am

bobgroh wrote:These good ol' saws work great for dado'ing. In fact, it is probably the best way to get it done IMHO. Way back in the day (1960's) I used my uncle's to make a bookshelf - dado'ed for all the shelves. That bookcase (7 shelves, about 7 ft tall and 3 ft wide made of pine) is still in the family after spending time in college dorms and having many moves. The ability to set the height of the saw blade is the whole key. So if you find a good one, I would pick it. Have no idea of a good price - they don't have a lot of value today. Except to the user!

I picked up a Crafstman 8 1/2" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw. Worked great. Only problem is that blade size is not real easy to find.

I've been slacking on pictures because the storage racks improved my garage from heinous to awful. I decided to go ahead and build the second phase of the project, a long workbench with storage underneath, so that hopefully I can upgrade my shop to mediocre.

I co-oping rpd's workbench project. I'm making a butcher block top out of 2x4's, 8 ft long and somewhere between 24" and 30" deep and still debating on height but prob going higher than traditional benches. Doweled and glued. I'm inserting a pair of 2x3's near the front to create a well for tools and small parts (I do a lot of mechanical work). I'm doing trestle feet to keep the end grain from contacting the floor, even though the shop is dry and it would likely soak up motor oil instead of water. Legs, trestles, and short stringers will be doubled up 2x4's (doweled and glued) with half lap joints which in essence will be mortise and tenon (joint @ trestle will be blind). Long stretchers will be single 2x4, top and down low on the rear, top only in front. I'll wind up with two large cavities ~42" or so wide in the front to store tool boxes, equipment, etc.

I'm trying to learn sketchup. So far I've drawn a 2x4 with dowel holes. It's a little to large for paintbrush and the scanner at work won't recognize the napkin I drew my plans on.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed May 08, 2013 12:58 pm

Back in my younger days, 'butcher blocks' had end grain facing up(the working surface). That minimized the 'damage' caused by cleavers and knives.

I think yer top will more closely resemble a bowling alley or bread board.

Yeah I know picky picky picky Tis an engineer thingy/:D

BTW I used tie rods(about 3' apart) rather than glue/dowels for the 2x4s stood on edge. Planed the top flat. Still flat after 40 years.