camerio wrote:I have re-read the post and I think I get it now. Extending the line that represent the pivot point of the main table under the OFT and centring the block there.
I still have to find myself the ball joint, I have not been yet to the big store ...
The ball joint is not crucial to making this work. It does nothing more than make the rotation (tilt) a bit smoother than it would be otherwise. This could very well be done by using a dowel that has been rounded off on the end.
The ball joint that I used is part of a bathroom shower head. I have checked and I find that they are repair parts. The ones I found were at Ace. The diagonal support bar was purchased at Ace and was also a repair part; precut to length and threaded. It is PVC so a normal pipe thread does not work.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:They work. This is my lighter weight OFT that has been cantilevered using the Shopsmith brackets.
[ATTACH]21065[/ATTACH]
Tom: If I was going to use a Main Table for my OFT, I would not rely on the cantilever characteristics to support the OFT. I would employ a diagonal support bar along with the Shopsmith brackets. This might not be necessary but since I am not a mechanical engineer, I cannot say.
My concern would not be the Mark V tipping. My concern would be that the Main Table may not support the stress created by the cantilever.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Since the main table end is supported at both sides, all that a diagonal support needs to provide is vertical support.
A trunion segment will provide correct vertical positioning.
The diagonal brace upper end needs to be attached to the trunion segment pivot.
With the entire assembly laying flat upside down, the lateral positioning and brace length should be relatively easy to check in that position(checking through entire tilt range). Key word "relatively"!;) The two adjustments will interact.
With the lower end free but observable, the trunion can be adjusted so that the lower end does not move 'up/down' as the table pair are tilted through full range.
I am away in TN, so this is pure mental exercise.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
It is true that the Shopsmith Brackets would maintain table position (would not allow it to sag). But if the diagonal support was not properly positioned, it could cause the table edge to rise.
I would seriously consider using the Shopsmith Brackets except for one characteristic. With them installed, changing configuration is much more difficult and time consuming than when using just the diagonal support.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
