Shopsmith Lathework

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rjmim
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Post by rjmim »

I just bought a SS and am still waiting for it, but I figure I can begin reading up on different topics. Can you reccomend a good bood for wood turning?
rjmim
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Post by rjmim »

rjmim wrote:I just bought a SS and am still waiting for it, but I figure I can begin reading up on different topics. Can you reccomend a good bood for wood turning?

Sorry, meant "book"
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jim
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Post by jim »

friscomike wrote: ...how in the world would you collect the debris from turning. Do you use a special device to catch it?

I had intended to use the SS sanding disk to sharpen the tools for now, and get a nice sharpening station later on.
Mike, yes.
Obviously, unless you enclose the SS, like you would a CnC machine, you're not going to get everything, or even the majority of the big stuff. What I am most concerned about are the fines (and talc like dust), I turn a lot of spalted woods. Spalt mold can make you sicker than a dog, and even non-spalted dust will cause pneumoconiosis if you breath enough of it over a long time. I hate wearing a mask (comes from 20 years of having to wear a gasmask, nowadays I have a major aversion to them) As I mentioned, I live in Alaska and most of the year I work with the shop closed up tight (something to do with it being -40F outside), so dust collection is a big priority with me. I built a large dust/chip handler based around an Oneida cyclone from parts and piece I scavenged from salvage yards, Craigslist, and eBay and hooked everything in the shop to it. For the SS in lathe mode, I started with a heavy stable adjustable stand (an old base from a table saw outfeed roller stand, I removed the roller tray and left the large U-bar support), on top I mounted a 4" round-to-8x4" rectangular flair duct fitting with large hose clamps. I modified the bottom of the duct flair with tin snips to get a flat clamping surface and added a piece of bar stock aluminum to reinforce it. Then I added a piece of polished flat aluminum sheet (roof flashing, nothing fancy or expensive) which clamps to the bottom of the flair duct with those big black paperclips and lays across the upper way tubes underneath the turning. Basically creating a feed tray. Above the duct I clamped a piece of rectangular plexiglass, angled out over the turning area. The tray and plexiglass serve to funnel dust into the collection throat. I also added a gooseneck lamp to the top of the assembly that can be angled to light the turning however I like. The stand is connected via 4” flex hose (RV flexible black plastic waste water hose, $0.30 per foot at Lowes) to the blast gate behind the SS. This setup gets 99% of the dust, and about 50% of the chips. The rest of the chips end up on the floor around the SS, which is why I have a floor-sweep pickup nearby. Cleanup during and after a turning project takes literally seconds.
As to using the SS sanding disk for sharpen lathe tools. It will work, but make sure you’re using a guide, either the SS sharpening guide or jigs you build for yourself. Free handing on the SS is a good way to ruin your expensive chisels (it can be done, but it’ll cost you to gain the experience necessary). And I like to touch up my tools while turning, so I really prefer a separate and dedicated sharpening station. I really like the Worksharp 3000, you get professional results every time and it is very affordable.


Rjmim
Probably the best book to learn the basics of turning from is Taunton’s Complete Illustrated Guide to Turning by Richard Raffan. It’s commonly available in most used book stores and covers basic and advanced techniques. Another one is Bowl Turning Techniques, Masterclass by Tony Boase. The big thing with beginning turning is not to get discouraged. You WILL blow up a number of blanks, especially when you’re learning to use the skew chisel. Also, different types of wood turn differently, some are easier than others, and there is a huge difference between turning green and cured wood. Some folks prefer one, some the other. Everybody has their own technique which is, of course, the only ‘proper’ technique. Some turners use scrapers and some claim that scrapers are sacrilege and real turners only use a skew and gouge (me, I use whatever I feel like at the moment). Experiment and sooner or later you’ll find your own technique. Try to find a source of inexpensive and decent wood to learn with – I recommend birch, which is cheap and plentiful in most parts of the country. Don’t start with expensive exotic wood blanks, trust me on this. You can usually find good blanks in the scrapwood bin at your local cabinet shop or mill (mills tend to toss out burl, which makes most excellent turning blanks) and you can usually fill the back of the truck up for nothing. I harvest most of my own birch with a chainsaw and ATV in the spring before the sap runs, and leave it in large logs until I need it. Green turning however isn't for everybody and it takes a while to develope the skills necessary. But, of course, the only way to learn is to practice - and there could be worse things in life :)
Jim Wright
Stonekettle Station
Palmer, Alaska
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rkh2
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Post by rkh2 »

rjmim
Welcome to the forum. I have been a SS owner now for 15 years and learned to turn about 3 years ago. I took a class at a Woodcraft store and started with spindle turning and pens then bowls and from there many more. Also took a couple of turning classes at the SS traveling academy which they no longer offer here in my part of the country but still do out your way. I also recommend a book by Richard Raffan called Turning Wood. It is loaded with pictures and he is a well know turner. You can get one for a real good price at either Amazon or half.com. The basic set of chisels which come with the SS are good but you will need to sharpen them before you use them the first time. I like Sorby tools myself for turning, but started out with the ones that came with my SS. One of the important things I was taught was to "rub the bevel" Turning can be addicting but who cares. Enjoy and welcome.
Ron from Lewisburg, TN
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

ImageJim,
I like your bowls. Are those holes natural, or did you put them there? If so, how did you do it? I really haven't started turning yet, but I have been "collecting" the tools to do so. One of these days...........Image
Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
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jim
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Post by jim »

a1gutterman - I put them there. Using a Foredom tool. The filigreed bowls are my personal style - I make other designs, but the filigreed ones are what get me noticed.
Jim Wright
Stonekettle Station
Palmer, Alaska
charlese
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Post by charlese »

You get a big ATTA BOY! for those bowls, Jim!

I always wanted a Foredom with an extension shaft, but settled for a Dremel. Maybe one of these days!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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pinkiewerewolf
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Post by pinkiewerewolf »

Jim, welcome to the forum, and thank you for the years of service to the country.
Now...Those bowls are beauties!:)
John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.:) Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.:D
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friscomike
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Post by friscomike »

Howdy Jim,

Thanks for the advice and guidance. I put the Worksharp 3000 on my wish list :-). I was going to get a bench grinder, but I think I'll skip it now.

As for the dust collection, it is encouraging to know it can be done. I'll start collecting the pieces and see what I come up with. A picture of your setup would help, too.

Best Regards,
mike
...now, if you'll excuse me, I'm a busy man. I have sawdust to make... ;)
osx-addict
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Post by osx-addict »

Jim -- What's the chance of getting a picture of your dust collection setup for the lathe? It sound interesting but I can't quite picture it.. Thx!
Rick
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
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