next project in rehabing greenie.
The quill does not retract. Got it all apart. Spring will not stay attached to button. Thought I better get some advice before I pull the spring out. Intend to be very careful and do it in a clean area.
Thanks
replacing quill spring
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Good luck with that. My second Shopsmith I bought had the same problem. It is a b*@#h to get that spring back in. The first time I did it I found out that I had wrapped the spring the wrong way!!! Takes some strong hands to get the spring attached and wrapped tight enough to get it back in its holder.
The hole in the spring gets a little lose and as the spring loses its strength it eventually will start coming off when you completely retract the quill. Make sure that when you completely retract the quill that the tension does not completely leave the spring. If you keep enough tension on the spring it will stay attached to the shaft. At least it has worked with mine.
Good luck!
The hole in the spring gets a little lose and as the spring loses its strength it eventually will start coming off when you completely retract the quill. Make sure that when you completely retract the quill that the tension does not completely leave the spring. If you keep enough tension on the spring it will stay attached to the shaft. At least it has worked with mine.
Good luck!
Alan - Austin, Texas
Shopsmith Mark V (1984), Bandsaw, Joiner, Belt sander, jig saw, planer, router table, biscuit jointer, Porter jig,
Shopsmith Mark V (1984), Bandsaw, Joiner, Belt sander, jig saw, planer, router table, biscuit jointer, Porter jig,
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Pulling spring out 'not' recommended (see previous post)!
Carefully reach in with long nose pliers and form end of the spring so it has a diameter slightly smaller than the shaft. You want a decreasing diameter as it gets closer to the end. Think spiral with the end near the shaft. If done correctly, the button will slip into the keyhole in the spring as it is rotated towards the end. You may need to help the button into the narrow part of the keyhole if the diameter is too small near the end. That smallness will help keep tension between the spring and the button that will minimize slipping off/out.
Be patient! Good Luck!!!
Carefully reach in with long nose pliers and form end of the spring so it has a diameter slightly smaller than the shaft. You want a decreasing diameter as it gets closer to the end. Think spiral with the end near the shaft. If done correctly, the button will slip into the keyhole in the spring as it is rotated towards the end. You may need to help the button into the narrow part of the keyhole if the diameter is too small near the end. That smallness will help keep tension between the spring and the button that will minimize slipping off/out.
Be patient! Good Luck!!!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
replacing quill spring
Thank you. I just went down to take a look. Waiting for brother to give me a hand. Don't want to bum it or me up.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35429
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
replacing quill spring
Problem solved. Called brother. Using a thin screwdrivr with the spring part and shaft part half together he was able to push that darn spring hole right into button. sometimes it is better to give the problem to someone else.
Next phase will be easier, I hope. He will (I hope) get the speed adjustment thing assembled before installing motor. Tomorrow will tell.
HE SAID that the machine screw holes are ruined SO he will bring new screws , the right size tap and something called allumin (SP) tapping oil and redo the holes that hold the framing parts together. We will see. Brothers are really useful .
Anne
Next phase will be easier, I hope. He will (I hope) get the speed adjustment thing assembled before installing motor. Tomorrow will tell.
HE SAID that the machine screw holes are ruined SO he will bring new screws , the right size tap and something called allumin (SP) tapping oil and redo the holes that hold the framing parts together. We will see. Brothers are really useful .
Anne