replaceing headstock wedges

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chuckc
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replaceing headstock wedges

Post by chuckc »

well call me stupid but do both of the wedes start at same end of rod or do you remove the handle to thread the LH wedge onto the rod?

CAme assembled from SS with the handle on the rod but had a loose rolled pin floating around in bag.

will be calling SS Tuesday to confirm because the rolled pin that's loose in bag seems too large for the hole in handle.
Capt Chuck

Shop Smith mod 510 x's 2 , bandsaw, 4 in joiner, DC3300 dust collector. SS planer.
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

chuckc wrote:well call me stupid but do both of the wedes start at same end of rod or do you remove the handle to thread the LH wedge onto the rod?

CAme assembled from SS with the handle on the rod but had a loose rolled pin floating around in bag.

will be calling SS Tuesday to confirm because the rolled pin that's loose in bag seems too large for the hole in handle.
One wedge has a right hand thread and the other has a left hand thread. The are started from the end of the rod with the appropriate thread. The handle has to be removed before you can install the wedge lock into the headstock. So I suspect Shopsmith left the pin out of the handle to make it easier for you.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

You also need to screw the wedges all the way to the middle(my idea) before inserting it into the headstock(from the inside!). This allows you to synchronize the wedges for equal travel. You will need to manually hold them to prevent the wedges from turning until the wedges contact the way tubes. They can be synchronized by other means, but with a lot of trial/error/correction.

Wing nut goes on last(left hand thread). Hole in screw shaft and nut MUST be aligned prior to tension pin insertion. The pin is a tight fit(it gets squeezed when inserted).

FWIW carriage lock is the same(but more easily accessed).
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chuckc
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Post by chuckc »

JPG40504 wrote:You also need to screw the wedges all the way to the middle(my idea) before inserting it into the headstock(from the inside!). This allows you to synchronize the wedges for equal travel. You will need to manually hold them to prevent the wedges from turning until the wedges contact the way tubes. They can be synchronized by other means, but with a lot of trial/error/correction.

Wing nut goes on last(left hand thread). Hole in screw shaft and nut MUST be aligned prior to tension pin insertion. The pin is a tight fit(it gets squeezed when inserted).

FWIW carriage lock is the same(but more easily accessed).
Thanks for the reply's.. That would explain why I couldn't drive out the old pin. used a nail and hammer but pin wouldn't budge so I just ordered a new one.
The new one is so tight I haven't gotten the handle off yet , probably use some vise grips today and get-er done.. :-)
Capt Chuck

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

chuckc wrote:Thanks for the reply's.. That would explain why I couldn't drive out the old pin. used a nail and hammer but pin wouldn't budge so I just ordered a new one.
The new one is so tight I haven't gotten the handle off yet , probably use some vise grips today and get-er done.. :-)


You DID notice I mentioned that end has left handed threads?;)

Lefty tighty, righty loosey.:D As it applies to the shaft and wing nut.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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chuckc
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threads

Post by chuckc »

[quote="JPG40504"]You DID notice I mentioned that end has left handed threads?]

Roger that,,, now head stock glides like butter on both machines.

:D

Now that kitchen remodel is done, its off to other projects...;)
Capt Chuck

Shop Smith mod 510 x's 2 , bandsaw, 4 in joiner, DC3300 dust collector. SS planer.
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