Any Way to Fix This?
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Any Way to Fix This?
PO dropped headstock on this. Any fix?
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Any fix? Yes, but replacement would be the best solution.
You could try J-B Weld, but the straightening and smoothing would be quite chore-some.
Really not worth the effort, in my opinion.
Here's the cost of replacement - $27.80 Here's Shopsmith's web order page for inserts. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_tableinserts.htm It looks like you want item B.
Looks like the broken insert was badly in the need of wax prior to breakage.
EDIT - - Oh for Pete's sake:o . Forgot to include the link to the insert. Sorry! But now it's there.
You could try J-B Weld, but the straightening and smoothing would be quite chore-some.
Here's the cost of replacement - $27.80 Here's Shopsmith's web order page for inserts. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_tableinserts.htm It looks like you want item B.
EDIT - - Oh for Pete's sake:o . Forgot to include the link to the insert. Sorry! But now it's there.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Probably you could use epoxy like JB Weld. If it were me, however, I would not mess with it because if the insert fails you could have projectiles flying back at you. You can make your own zero clearance insert without too much work. Use the search feature and you will see several methods for making these.db5 wrote:PO dropped headstock on this. Any fix?
Charlese beat me to it. I agree: buy a new one or make your own ZCI
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
I feared as much. I thought heat, hammer or something would work. My wife said that if we we packed it and took it on a cruise to Bermuda that it would fix it. So, before I make a final decision, what do your wives say about the Bermuda Cruise Fix?algale wrote:Probably you could use epoxy like JB Weld. If it were me, however, I would not mess with it because if the insert fails you could have projectiles flying back at you. You can make your own zero clearance insert without too much work. Use the search feature and you will see several methods for making these.
Charlese beat me to it. I agree: buy a new one or make your own ZCI
- BuckeyeDennis
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My wife would go for a Bermuda Cruise Fix in half a heartbeat. Great concept. Bet it cost more than $28, though!db5 wrote:I feared as much. I thought heat, hammer or something would work. My wife said that if we we packed it and took it on a cruise to Bermuda that it would fix it. So, before I make a final decision, what do your wives say about the Bermuda Cruise Fix?
I would never use JB Weld for a mechanical or load bearing part. It's great for some applications but that's getting borderline and it's not low enough viscosity to get down into cracks like a proper reapir needs.
If its steel get it welded. If it's cast, get it brazed. Most muffler shops could do the weld for you on the cheap, brazing would require a machine shop and a little more money but not awful.
But ff the part is only $27, ignore all that and buy the part.
If its steel get it welded. If it's cast, get it brazed. Most muffler shops could do the weld for you on the cheap, brazing would require a machine shop and a little more money but not awful.
But ff the part is only $27, ignore all that and buy the part.
- JPG
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frank81 wrote:I would never use JB Weld for a mechanical or load bearing part. It's great for some applications but that's getting borderline and it's not low enough viscosity to get down into cracks like a proper reapir needs.
If its steel get it welded. If it's cast, get it brazed. Most muffler shops could do the weld for you on the cheap, brazing would require a machine shop and a little more money but not awful.
But ff the part is only $27, ignore all that and buy the part.
Besides that, it is aluminum. Reduces the chances of 'successful' welding.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Welding aluminum requires a TIG welder (or certain MIG welders can do it as well with the correct attachment)...but welding aluminum is much more tricky than steel and requires some expertise and experience...even with that, it's hard to see that the end result will be as good as a new one (or quality used one), much less that it can be done <= the price of a new/used one.
'78 Mark V 500 #27995 (my Dad bought new)
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner