cutting a groove in a pvc pipe

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farley
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cutting a groove in a pvc pipe

Post by farley »

I want to cut a groove out of just the face of a 1/2 inch pvc pipe.

Is a table router the best way, while securing the 1/2 pipe of course.
keeping this shopsmith relate I could use my SS with a route attachment.

the end project will be:
the 1/2 pipe is secured with pipe clamps, to a gate that has 1/2 flat uprights.
I then want to get a "rod" that will go in the pvc pipe, ride up and down the cut out groove so it can keep the gate open when in the down position.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I would leave the pipe unaltered and secure the 'rod' above it with a hook or something.
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benush26
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Post by benush26 »

Maybe I am missing something, but why not just put the SS in drill press mode, tilt the table to 45 degrees, attach the fence so it forms the trough for the pipe, install a drill or router bit of the correct diameter you want and rout out the length of the opening. Unless its a really long slot, you should be able to slide the pipe in the trough with out any jigs.

Or am I completely missing the scope of what you want to accomplish?
farley
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Post by farley »

sorry for being such a stupid.

I have been out of the shop for 2 months, still on meds for my shingles and get a little nervous about doing things around equipment.

I wanted to talk it out a little while I research my brain.

Here is what I did.
I put a straight bit in my router table and just cut out a section.
Image

now I need to see if the hardware store has a "T" coupler so I can cut the rod, and then add a 2" inch "handle" and a top rod section


so when you pull the handle up and turn to the right it will sit off the ground, when you turn the handle and drop the rod, it will go into a hole in the ground and keep the gate open.
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rpd
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Post by rpd »

Why not just bend the rod 90 degrees to make the handle?
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farley
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Post by farley »

that's a good idea, I have rod, not threaded, I can use.
should I heat it with a small touch as I pound over the handle?
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

farley wrote:that's a good idea, I have rod, not threaded, I can use.
should I heat it with a small touch as I pound over the handle?

If it is resisting being bent!:D

A torch might work more gooder!;)

I would pull on a pipe(iron) slipped over the end rather than 'pounding'.:rolleyes:

Oh I just noticed yer '20'. Lay it out in de sun for a few minutes. That outa get them, molecules stirrd up enough to make it bend easier.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
frank81
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Post by frank81 »

farley wrote:that's a good idea, I have rod, not threaded, I can use.
should I heat it with a small touch as I pound over the handle?
Heating the rod until it just starts to glow will make the job easier and reduce the risk of snapping.

You'll need to plan on having a small radius rather than a sharp 90 degree angle. The radius depends on the thickness of the rod, but a 1 inch radius (same dimensions as a 2 inch pipe) would work if its similar in size to the threaded rod pictured.

If you really want a sharp 90 degree angle, or a T-handle, I would weld a length of rod to a nut, then double nut to the threaded rod.
farley
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Post by farley »

thanks
of course one things leds to another.
as I started to bend the rod, the baby vise couldn't stay still, so I have to put my manly vice on the workbench. Will finish this project during the week,
thanks for all the help
frank81
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Post by frank81 »

farley wrote:thanks
of course one things leds to another.
as I started to bend the rod, the baby vise couldn't stay still, so I have to put my manly vice on the workbench. Will finish this project during the week,
thanks for all the help
You could probably get away with no vice at all. Vice grips on the longer end just below the bend as you heat it, and then any type of pliers on the part to become the handle. That way you can play with fire outside of the shop, and let it cool on the ground unattended.
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