Main Table Alignment

[keakap]

...
Before I cut my "Insert on Steroids", I tweaked the alignment. In fact I tweaked it and tweaked it and then tweaked it again. Every time I had the problem that others have commented about. The table would shift ever so slightly when I tightened the trunnion bolts....

Sounds like you need a good ol' f.a.r.t. (Fine Alignment Repositioning Tool). I've found a 16oz ball peen works pretty well. I get the trunions real close, which isn't hard, then make sure the "pivot" bolt (I think that's the Right Rear) is well more than snug while the others are well under snug. Tighten each of those a wee smidge at a time, watching the gauge. Any movement there merits a dose of f.a.r.t. to get it back. Continue til those 3 bolts are quite tight and close the pivot.

[keakap]

... say that the reason you put the dot on the blade is because if your blade is like mine, it isn't flat. That brought me to my next conclusion that being a hair off probably makes no difference.

So, are we all in agreement that the subject is less table alignment and more priority alignment?

;-)

[JPG]

[quote="keakap"]So, are we all in agreement that the subject is less table alignment and more priority alignment?

]

Nope!

Even though the blade may(is likely to)be warped, the axis of rotation is the thing we need to be aligning to. The blade(or sanding disc) is merely a way to indirectly reference the quill axis.

[keakap]

...
Next question: just what are the dimensions of the blade stabilizers that Bill Mayo endorses? No word from Bill yet, but Rockler sells some that are 3" in diameter. Compared to the SS clamp rings, they look a bit thin, and there is no undercut apparent in the photos. The Rockler reviews did say that they were very effective.

Bill (later) said he's used a few sizes. They may include the Forrest, since he mentioned 5". When I got my F blade it was a Sale package which included the stabilizer. It is a 5" unit, 1/8 thick, and does definitely make a difference. With it the F blades have virtually zero runout, and on a variety of SS blades it makes a very large and quite noticeable improvement. Only once have I needed to remove it for cutting depth, and for that workpiece I frankly could have used a chain saw and done okay, anaway.

$0.0125 (adjusted for 'flation)

(added): noticed Bill opined that the Stab. not needed with hi quality blades, and I agree. I generally keep mine on the F blade, as a default, only because if I want a perfect cut I want to maximize my chances going in. Other than that the most use it sees is on my SS rip blade when I'm doin a lot of it.

[keakap]

Nope!

Even though the blade may(is likely to)be warped, the axis of rotation is the thing we need to be aligning to. The blade(or sanding disc) is merely a way to indirectly reference the quill axis.

Subtlety Check!

"the subject is less table alignment and more priority alignment?"

by 'priority alignment" I was referring to the dynamic attitude change, as in "it seemed like a good thing to do until it became a p.i.t.a. so I decided not to bother" sort of a thing.
hence the ;-)

;0)

[dusty]

I probably should have sought a previous thread to add this to because I know this subject has been discussed many times BUT I get so frustrated trying to find posts that I know exist. This is easier on my blood pressure.

In previous threads, users have commented that table alignment can be frustrating and time consuming and I agree it is. Well, at least it was. I think I have develop a tool that should speed things up and maybe even help to get well aligned Mark 5/V tables to become common place.

This is what I am now using (trial period).

[ATTACH]17223[/ATTACH]

Yup, it just looks like a table insert on steroids.

It's a piece of 3/4" mdf that I shaped as an insert. With my table well aligned, I simply cut the kerf through the 3/4" insert.

Now, when I need to align the table I simply loosen the 4 trunnion bolts, remove the normal insert, set the table height for a deep cut and slide the insert down over the blade. If the insert does not fit into the cutout, I simply move the table around until the cutout and the insert align. Seat the insert in the cutout and tighten the two trunnion bolts that can be reached with the table flat.

Don't forget the other two trunnion bolts.

I just finished doing this and when I double checked the alignment with a dial indicator I found it to be well within my self imposed criteria of +-.005".

The table did shift slightly when I tightened the bolts but not enough to necessitate a repeat.

I am compelled to report here that this alignment jig (method) does not work for everyone.

I provided one of the jigs to a member of this forum and the results were much less than satisfactory. His Main Table was reported to be within .008" of parallel (to the blade) without tweaking. I feel that it should be more like .004" and you can then tweak from there if you feel a need.

Careful use of the miter gauge and allen wrench (the old standby method called out in older Mark V documentation) will get you within .008".

[TFF]

I recommend the answer I posted in #144878 for aligning the table trunnions. It is about physics. The force of tightening down the trunnions (considerable) has to be less than the force holding the table in place-- the masterplate and insert. The width of the gauge is such that you do not get the racking associated with a blade and it is fast to align.

[JPG]

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 78#p144878

[dusty]

All of the alignment procedures that have been detailed here on the forum work. Some provide a bit more accuracy than others, but they all work. The critical question is just how accurate do you want to be? It is all a matter of personal self satisfaction when the task is done. I have settled for a standard . 005" for this measurement. That is to say that the blade is within .005" of being the same when measured first at the rear of the blade and then again at the front of the blade.

This can be achieved with no special tools. The miter gauge, a square and a set of feeler gauges will get you there.

If you have problems achieving this, I would bet that the alignment is good until you begin tightening the trunnion bolts. Do it carefully while paying attention to table movement and you will be fine. Get in a hurry - do it all over again.

BTW - I do now own a master plate like disk that I bought from Infinity Tools. Because it is thicker and more rigid it does not flex like a blade. Does it improve table alignment? NO! You have to do that.

[Hobbyman2]

I might be wrong but I believe I seen a video once where the guy put his allen wrench ,,,,,or a rod ,,or even a dowel ,,in the hole in the side of the miter gage,,tightened down the set screw and used it as a reference when aligning the table ?


I tried it once and I still check and adjust the fence just to be sure I am ok.

Hobbyman2