Since i just replaced the plastic like transport on a screw garage door opener, I believe you would quickly strip the drive part on any garage door. I have also had to replace the plastic like drive gear on a chain driven garage door opener years ago. I used my portable engine pulling crane a few times when I was limited to a single Shopsmith to put it in the drill press position.db5 wrote:Why not try this: Open the garage door so that the left side of the SS is positioned under the inside door handle (I'll post pictures if someone wants). Use a strap, cable, rope or even a belt and run it through the door handle and the two way tubes. Then with the garage door opener raise the door. Be sure the wheels are down so the SS will roll as it is raised. I don't need to do this since I already have a solution but it just might work.
No, I don't want any of thesein reply.
Lift assist worth trade offs?
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Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Ah yes. Better minds prevail. I also replaced that nylon drive screw two years ago. I keep forgetting that Made in USA is not what it once was and certainly if it was not made in USA.billmayo wrote:Since i just replaced the plastic like transport on a screw garage door opener, I believe you would quickly strip the drive part on any garage door. I have also had to replace the plastic like drive gear on a chain driven garage door opener years ago. I used my portable engine pulling crane a few times when I was limited to a single Shopsmith to put it in the drill press position.
Thank you Mr. Mayo. Cancel that suggestion.
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JPG
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db5 wrote:Ah yes. Better minds prevail. I also replaced that nylon drive screw two years ago. I keep forgetting that Made in USA is not what it once was and certainly if it was not made in USA.
Thank you Mr. Mayo. Cancel that suggestion.
No
!How about
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I think the Smithy Supershop had a torsion type spring to help lift its headstock. Off the top of my head that is the only thing I can think of that would be out of the way. I`m not sure of the longevity of such a spring but it could be worth a look.
-Erich-
-Erich-
1986 Mark V 500, SS Bandsaw, SS Belt Sander, Shaper Package, SS Molder, SS Oscillating Drum Sander, Excalibur EX-II scrollsaw, Central Machine 6 1/8" Jointer, Rigid 13" planer, Various routers and table.
"Remeber, you're unique. Just like everyone else."
"Remeber, you're unique. Just like everyone else."
...and a light went on. I had pretty much concluded that a Quick-On, Quick-off system would be necessary, and then I saw this. First thot was safety, then another light went on. Could the official SS model be a Hard installation for safety reasons? Seems likely.Ed in Tampa wrote:... a similar gas cylinder but instead of clamping to the way tubes it only pressed against them to lift the SS into dril press mode. ...one with some sort of spring assembly that again merely pressed against the way tubes instead of being clamped to them.
...I think most of these fell by the wayside as people started using the official SS model.
I can't seem to find any pictures or discussions on them. It might have been in the old Yahoo forum or the SSug forum.
Could be time to investigate. My L-A is still installed but disconnected, since I just couldn't stand the way it torqued the way tubes all out of shape when in Normal mode.
Start point: lose those eight bolts and teeny weeny nuts on the upper blocks.
Since we're working with gravity instead of agin it, I have a feeling this won't be all that difficult. And I don't have to worry about suing myself if something goes wrong, I can easily jump that counter-productive hurdle.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
Which highlights my big problem. Going from horizontal (normal) to vertical (drill press) is pretty easy, even PowerPro, by sliding the headstock toward Pivot first. Same in reverse. But, raising or lowering the PP in D-P mode is a bear.benush26 wrote:...
One of the greater determining factors was when considering letting the head stock DOWN. ...Ben
So to avoid that problem the headstock is pre-positioned on the ways such that lifting to D-P is a bear. Choose yer bear.
There's gotta be a way to reconfigure the L-A to just vertical positioning duty, and without those dang blocks.
AHA! And then I saw db5's Toyota Lift Assist Solution. This deserves some study...
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;