Has anyone checked into having these made by a 3d printing service? Seems like a perfect application.
Ken
M VII plastic rack details
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fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
And you can have them print out a couple of guns while they are at it.kenbu wrote:Has anyone checked into having these made by a 3d printing service? Seems like a perfect application.
Ken
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
Absolutely does seem perfect. I'd be interested in the price. A plastic latch release button for the front face shield on my motorcycle helmet broke a while back. I couldn't get a replacement from the manufacturer, so I made a model of it in Google and shopped it to a couple of 3D printing services online. Just a small L-shaped piece, about 1.5"x1"x.75". The quotes I got were all around $60. I found the same helmet on clearance for $40, shipping included.kenbu wrote:Has anyone checked into having these made by a 3d printing service? Seems like a perfect application.
Ken
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
I have a set of mark VII tubes with the track intact if anyone is interested...pm me if you are interested.
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup
JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw
-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw
-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
Gear Rack
It has taken months but I finally got the aluminum gear rack back from the shop. It has 2 sections 18" long. I tried to attach pictures but the site keeps telling me the files are too big but I have saved them in photoshop as small as it will let me.
Anyway, I think I will be OK with the info you have already given me. I wonder if you can comment on the details of the rivets that will attach the rack to the steel tube. I assume I just drill out the old ones. I have rivets that will fit in the holes but I have several lengths to choose from. How long should the "compression" part of the rivet be?
The rivet holes in the rack are in two stages, the inner half of the hole is smaller than the top half. I assume the larger hole can accommodate the expanded part of the rivet.
Any other advice would be appreciated as I don't want to screw this up after waiting so long to get this made up.
Dale
Anyway, I think I will be OK with the info you have already given me. I wonder if you can comment on the details of the rivets that will attach the rack to the steel tube. I assume I just drill out the old ones. I have rivets that will fit in the holes but I have several lengths to choose from. How long should the "compression" part of the rivet be?
The rivet holes in the rack are in two stages, the inner half of the hole is smaller than the top half. I assume the larger hole can accommodate the expanded part of the rivet.
Any other advice would be appreciated as I don't want to screw this up after waiting so long to get this made up.
Dale
Gear Rack
It has taken months but I finally got the aluminum gear rack back from the shop. It has 2 sections 18" long. I tried to attach pictures but the site keeps telling me the files are too big but I have saved them in photoshop as small as it will let me.
Anyway, I think I will be OK with the info you have already given me. I wonder if you can comment on the details of the rivets that will attach the rack to the steel tube. I assume I just drill out the old ones. I have rivets that will fit in the holes but I have several lengths to choose from. How long should the "compression" part of the rivet be?
The rivet holes in the rack are in two stages, the inner half of the hole is smaller than the top half. I assume the larger hole can accommodate the expanded part of the rivet.
Any other advice would be appreciated as I don't want to screw this up after waiting so long to get this made up.
Dale
Anyway, I think I will be OK with the info you have already given me. I wonder if you can comment on the details of the rivets that will attach the rack to the steel tube. I assume I just drill out the old ones. I have rivets that will fit in the holes but I have several lengths to choose from. How long should the "compression" part of the rivet be?
The rivet holes in the rack are in two stages, the inner half of the hole is smaller than the top half. I assume the larger hole can accommodate the expanded part of the rivet.
Any other advice would be appreciated as I don't want to screw this up after waiting so long to get this made up.
Dale
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nothungry3
- Gold Member
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- Location: Newington, Connecticut
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r_mack1969
- Gold Member
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- Location: Boylston, MA
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JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
He is still waiting fer an answer to de rivet questions.
So, the counterbored holes are indeed to allow the rivet head to be below the root of the gear rack.
The rivet length should protrude inside about 1/8 to 3/16 inch before 'pulling'.
I would use steel rivets for this.
FWIW, getting the original rivets out can be somewhat challenging. File down and drive into the tube(pin first). They be kinda 'hardened'.
So, the counterbored holes are indeed to allow the rivet head to be below the root of the gear rack.
The rivet length should protrude inside about 1/8 to 3/16 inch before 'pulling'.
I would use steel rivets for this.
FWIW, getting the original rivets out can be somewhat challenging.
File down and drive into the tube(pin first). They be kinda 'hardened'.╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange