Reassembling the Speed Handle, Control Bracket and Quadrant Assembly
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Reassembling the Speed Handle, Control Bracket and Quadrant Assembly
How do I put it back together? Should the Quadrant Assemblybe cranked all the way towards the Speed Dial or the Control Sheave?
My speed control was working fine and very smoothly, andthen it stopped about half way to Slow. It would run back up to Fast, but onlyback part way to Slow.
I removed the Speed Handle and Dial, Speed Control Bracketand Quadrant Assembly. I noticed that the retaining loop on the end of thesheave was not at the detent of the leaf spring, but close to the worm gear:the retaining loop was almost in line with the shaft of the control sheave. Icleaned and lubed everything and put it back together but something is wrong: Ican’t spin the Sanding Disc, something clunks and it stops almost immediately.
The Drive Belt is completely slack.
My speed control was working fine and very smoothly, andthen it stopped about half way to Slow. It would run back up to Fast, but onlyback part way to Slow.
I removed the Speed Handle and Dial, Speed Control Bracketand Quadrant Assembly. I noticed that the retaining loop on the end of thesheave was not at the detent of the leaf spring, but close to the worm gear:the retaining loop was almost in line with the shaft of the control sheave. Icleaned and lubed everything and put it back together but something is wrong: Ican’t spin the Sanding Disc, something clunks and it stops almost immediately.
The Drive Belt is completely slack.
- joshh
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The sentences quoted above are where I think you need to start checking first.wgander wrote: Ican’t spin the Sanding Disc, something clunks and it stops almost immediately.
The Drive Belt is completely slack.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3769
Good info in that link.
A picture shot through the access hole and another shot of the sheaves with the pulley guard off would be very helpful.
- 1986 Mark V 500 Mini
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
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thanks for the link
Attached is view of Speed Quadrant now; Speed Dial has not been calibrated.
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thanks for the link
Photos attached - Speed Dial has not been calibrated.
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I believe the motor belt is jammed between the control sheave and the idler sheave. This occurs when the sheaves open fully(or too far) and the belt drops down. I assume you are referring to the motor belt as the 'drive' belt being slack.
Remove the clip off the quadrant.
Remove the speed control(this allows opening the sheaves so the belt can be freed).
Raise the belt away from the idler pulley(control and idler sheaves).
Set the speed control to 'fast'. There is a high speed stop. This places the quadrant towards the dial. Reinstall the speed control. Position the outer ring to 'fast' and reattach the knob. Make sure the set screw seats in the depression in the shaft.
Place the loop over the clip on the quadrant gear arm.
Lower the motor belt onto the idler pulley and then onto the motor pulley.
At this point you should be able to rotate it all by hand.
If you have not done a 'high speed' adjustment' now might be a good time to do so.(requires removing the knob etc. again).
FWIW, the loop and bearing button slide along the quadrant arm so the loop will not stay near the bent portion of the spring on the quadrant arm.
Remove the clip off the quadrant.
Remove the speed control(this allows opening the sheaves so the belt can be freed).
Raise the belt away from the idler pulley(control and idler sheaves).
Set the speed control to 'fast'. There is a high speed stop. This places the quadrant towards the dial. Reinstall the speed control. Position the outer ring to 'fast' and reattach the knob. Make sure the set screw seats in the depression in the shaft.
Place the loop over the clip on the quadrant gear arm.
Lower the motor belt onto the idler pulley and then onto the motor pulley.
At this point you should be able to rotate it all by hand.
If you have not done a 'high speed' adjustment' now might be a good time to do so.(requires removing the knob etc. again).
FWIW, the loop and bearing button slide along the quadrant arm so the loop will not stay near the bent portion of the spring on the quadrant arm.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=2
Check here for the PDF on the high speed adjustment.
Check here for the PDF on the high speed adjustment.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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Got it back together
took hours, dropped parts inside the housing -didn't think I'd ever recover the nut.
The drive belt (lower one) was jammed between the sheaves. I ended up keeping it loose on the sheave and took it off the motor (floating) sheave until I had the speed quadrant installed.
What's the secret for keeping the spring behind the speed dial in place? As careful as I was, when I was cleaning up I found the spring on the floor!
I'll have to wait until tomorrow to do the high speed adjustment, and replace the speed dial spring.
The drive belt (lower one) was jammed between the sheaves. I ended up keeping it loose on the sheave and took it off the motor (floating) sheave until I had the speed quadrant installed.
What's the secret for keeping the spring behind the speed dial in place? As careful as I was, when I was cleaning up I found the spring on the floor!
I'll have to wait until tomorrow to do the high speed adjustment, and replace the speed dial spring.
WELL KEPT SECRET - Always lubricate the Motor sheaves as well as the control sheaves. Just putting a couple of drops of oil into the hole in the motor sheaves just won't do the trick. Put the Shopsmith is drill press position and spread the spring and put plenty of oil on the shaft. Let it flow into the slide. Then lower the unit to saw position and using hand pressure slide the outside motor sheave against the spring several times to make sure it is moving freely.
Also PART OF THE SECRETE= When the speed is set as "FAST" put plenty of oil into the shaft through the little hole. Then with the motor on, run from high speed to low speed several times (5 or 6). Any excess oil will ooze from the little bearing that holds the loop. Your bearing will thank you!
Also PART OF THE SECRETE= When the speed is set as "FAST" put plenty of oil into the shaft through the little hole. Then with the motor on, run from high speed to low speed several times (5 or 6). Any excess oil will ooze from the little bearing that holds the loop. Your bearing will thank you!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Very very true. 90% of the shopsmith headstock failures I have seen are caused by lack of or insufficent oiling. You need extra oil in the control sheave to flush out the dirt, aluminum particles and belt resdue from the control sheave bearing. The extra oil being flushed out will not hurt anything inside the headstock.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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oiling
..don't know what prompted the posts about oiling. The belt got jammed in the sheaves when I was putting it back on - not from normal operations.
I was pleased to see how clean the inside of the headstock was - very little sawdust. I lubed everything, but probably had less than 10 hours on the machine since its last maintenance.
I was pleased to see how clean the inside of the headstock was - very little sawdust. I lubed everything, but probably had less than 10 hours on the machine since its last maintenance.