Drill Bit Advice
Moderator: admin
Drill Bit Advice
As I slowly trudge forward on setting up my workshop at our new house, I mounted one of my 10E's on the wall as a dedicated drill press. I then came to the realization that have a large mish mash of old drill bits of various types and sizes, mostly from years of house repairs and remodeling, but that I would prefer to start off with a more organized assortment of bits more appropriate for wood working. So I'm hoping for some advice on the types of bits I should get, input on quality differences I should be aware of etc. In terms of what I'll use them for, once the shop is up and running, I will be making toys and gifts, wood turning, and some cabinetry and furniture making etc.
'78 Mark V 500 #27995 (my Dad bought new)
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
I really dislike to try to answer questions that are dependent on a persons personal preferences and activities, but here goes,
First get a comprehensive set of good quality twist drills for general drilling tasks. Use these for drilling where the finish around the holes will not be seen or does not matter. In conjunction with this set get a Drill Doctor or some other good sharpening system. These drills are the easiest to sharpen.
Second I would consider a set of brad point bits or Forstner bits where the finish around the edge of the holes is important.
I have a set of Forstner bits that are of Chinese manufacture and they are decent quality but I only use them when I really need to. They are difficult to sharpen as well as the brad point drills.
After I sharpen my standard drills with the Drill Doctor the edges of the holes are pretty good for general work
Only my opinion.
Bill V
First get a comprehensive set of good quality twist drills for general drilling tasks. Use these for drilling where the finish around the holes will not be seen or does not matter. In conjunction with this set get a Drill Doctor or some other good sharpening system. These drills are the easiest to sharpen.
Second I would consider a set of brad point bits or Forstner bits where the finish around the edge of the holes is important.
I have a set of Forstner bits that are of Chinese manufacture and they are decent quality but I only use them when I really need to. They are difficult to sharpen as well as the brad point drills.
After I sharpen my standard drills with the Drill Doctor the edges of the holes are pretty good for general work
Only my opinion.
Bill V
I thought about buying a drill dr. But I can buy MANY twist drill bits for that cost.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.
Bob
.
.
Bob
-
reddog5362
- Gold Member
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:39 am
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
I'm going to agree with Bill on pretty much everything but the twist bit part. I bought a cheap full index of fractional, numbered, lettered, and metric bits. As I use those and they get dull or break I replace those bits with good quality bits. That way I've got all the sizes covered without breaking the bank, and the bits I use most often are good quality. I find that I really only use a few sizes regularly.
I have an older Drill Doctor it works very well for standard twist bitsbeeg wrote:I thought about buying a drill dr. But I can buy MANY twist drill bits for that cost.
it has paid for it's self a few times over although thats from metal working
which will dull bits much faster.
Bruce
I didn't know what a Shopsmith was...
Three days later I owned one...
One week later I was rebuilding one...
Four months later I owned two....
Ok Ok, I'm up to four now...
I didn't know what a Shopsmith was...
Three days later I owned one...
One week later I was rebuilding one...
Four months later I owned two....
Ok Ok, I'm up to four now...
Yes you can; and if you don't take every one out, lay each on a piece of glass that is level and see if it will roll you will wish you had since it is no too late to take them back. I bought a Drill Dr. from Craigslist with an extra diamond wheel for $50 and it has been well worth the expense. I can touch up a drill anytime with ease which makes drilling easy. My American Made bits 1980s work marvelously.beeg wrote:I thought about buying a drill dr. But I can buy MANY twist drill bits for that cost.
Thanks for the input - what factors should i consider in terms of quality as I look at something like a set of Forstner bits? I realize this is a bit of a personal choice but I guess I'm wondering what folks recommend to balance between not skimping on quality as necessary and also not breaking the bank unnecessarily.
'78 Mark V 500 #27995 (my Dad bought new)
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
- joshh
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 723
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:53 pm
- Location: Dallas / Fort Worth, Texas
It's not very difficult (with practice) to sharpen twist drill bits if you own a cheap grinder.
http://youtu.be/y0SQkzScQk0
http://youtu.be/y0SQkzScQk0
- 1986 Mark V 500 Mini
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
- tomsalwasser
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 928
- Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 2:09 pm
I have a small set of Forstner bits. I don't remember where I got them but I'm sure they were decent quality. The small size was 1/4 and my large one is 3/4. I also purchased a set from SS along with my unit in 1982. It was a very nice set brad point bits. But I wasn't careful with them and 'blued' a number of them. I also have a set of name brand titanium coated twist bits from a big box store. I also have a old set of HSS but with many missing.dgale wrote:As I slowly trudge forward on setting up my workshop at our new house, I mounted one of my 10E's on the wall as a dedicated drill press. I then came to the realization that have a large mish mash of old drill bits of various types and sizes, mostly from years of house repairs and remodeling, but that I would prefer to start off with a more organized assortment of bits more appropriate for wood working. So I'm hoping for some advice on the types of bits I should get, input on quality differences I should be aware of etc. In terms of what I'll use them for, once the shop is up and running, I will be making toys and gifts, wood turning, and some cabinetry and furniture making etc.
New Leaf Custom Woodworking
Berry Conway - Chief Dust Maker
Berry Conway - Chief Dust Maker