Shorty or No Shorty

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

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damagi
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Post by damagi »

It was interesting to see how they chose to mount the base. They used washers and went through the clearance holes for the extension table, then used bolts and washers on the other end going through the holes where most folks store their allen wrench.

Image

Note in the lower right corner the mounting strategy. This means you can't drop the table any lower than that - ie: no short horizontal boring.

Also of note, in the photo they changed how the table was mounted. It appears they switched from using all 4 posts on the extension table to just using two. Clearly this could make you subject to out-of-square issues. Then again, this may be just a weird camera angle.

Image

That photo shows the table with all four posts in use...perhaps flipping it around would solve the issue they were seeing that drove the use of only two mounting posts.
If you look carefully in the lower left you see the bolt heads going through the allen wrench holes.
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup

JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw

-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

damagi wrote:It was interesting to see how they chose to mount the base. They used washers and went through the clearance holes for the extension table, then used bolts and washers on the other end going through the holes where most folks store their allen wrench.

Image

Note in the lower right corner the mounting strategy. This means you can't drop the table any lower than that - ie: no short horizontal boring. Would not clearance holes in the bench board alleviate that? A different way to secure the base would be required(a pair of holes like the other end etc.)?

Also of note, in the photo they changed how the table was mounted. It appears they switched from using all 4 posts on the extension table to just using two. Clearly this could make you subject to out-of-square issues. The base end could be aligned to eliminate that. Then again, this may be just a weird camera angle. I think that be so.

Image

That photo shows the table with all four posts in use...perhaps flipping it around would solve the issue they were seeing that drove the use of only two mounting posts.
If you look carefully in the lower left you see the bolt heads going through the allen wrench holes.

See de blue above!

I think they once again shot themselves in der foot during a photo shoot!:rolleyes:

Obviously the table was reversed between the two pix.

I understand a reluctance on their part(and current owners) to drill large holes in the end casting where stress was not anticipated when designing it. A nesting block as has been previously posted would be my choice.* The block could include clearance holes for the table posts. That previous post was made to show how to lower the SS by using a lower bench, but it included the bench tubes(IIRC). IMHO they would be prudent here as well as providing an alternative mounting scheme(u bolts) and retaining the tool kit storage hole:D. * See post 35 below!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

I found you could use a long 3/8" threaded rod in place of the bolts that holds the bench tubes to mount the headrest and base to a platform. You could use the the threaded rod with or without the bench tubes. I would use a nut to lock the rod in the headrest and base. I agree that drilling in the headrest, base or base arm is not a good idea as the aluminum metal is very thin in places and can break around holes when under pressure. I always reinforced any area where I drilled holes on these units. This is my construction Shopsmith I built in 2005 to add an addition to our home. The wooden frame with wheels are available for free to anyone stopping by to pickit up. I cannot just scrap this frame but it does take up room in my garage.
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Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

I opened a Shop Deputy thread under Wood Working Tools Review subtopic
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

billmayo wrote:I found you could use a long 3/8" threaded rod in place of the bolts that holds the bench tubes to mount the headrest and base to a platform. You could use the the threaded rod with or without the bench tubes. I would use a nut to lock the rod in the headrest and base. I agree that drilling in the headrest, base or base arm is not a good idea as the aluminum metal is very thin in places and can break around holes when under pressure. I always reinforced any area where I drilled holes on these units. This is my construction Shopsmith I built in 2005 to add an addition to our home. The wooden frame with wheels are available for free to anyone stopping by to pickit up. I cannot just scrap this frame but it does take up room in my garage.
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DUHHHH!!!!

The bench tube clamp tapped holes of course!!!:cool: I would add a spacer to prevent the casting deforming.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
damagi
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Post by damagi »

JPG40504 wrote:DUHHHH!!!!

The bench tube clamp tapped holes of course!!!:cool: I would add a spacer to prevent the casting deforming.
Yup, that was my thought...Either ship or have folks cut a spacer, then use threaded rod and bolts to attach to the wooden base. That would at least give you a few more inches for the accessory table. Whether or not that's sufficient to get the table low enough to be interesting is a different story for sure.
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup

JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw

-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

damagi wrote:Yup, that was my thought...Either ship or have folks cut a spacer, then use threaded rod and bolts to attach to the wooden base. That would at least give you a few more inches for the accessory table. Whether or not that's sufficient to get the table low enough to be interesting is a different story for sure.
I had to drill 1 1/2" holes into the wood platform at each end under the extension table and SPT support tube holes located in the base arm and headrest. The tube holes are 1" but I went bigger at 1 1/2" so my measurement did not have to be exact. The 3/8" long threaded rods is all you need to hold the base and headrest to whatever platform you are using. No holes were drilled in the base or headrest. The base and headrest I used came from a Shopsmith that was not secured on the back of a pickup truck and fell off. Most of the leg bolt holes in the base and headrest were broken out so this was the only solution for these parts. You could use one or more wooden spacers (2X12) under the base and headrest if the Shopsmith is setting too low on whatever platform you are using.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I can see a bunch of home grown benches made to a owner's height preference etc. as a result of the 'deputy'.:cool: The seed has done been planted in fertile soil!;)

Gee just like in the 10E/ER days.:D
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
alisfair
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Post by alisfair »

have opportunity to purchase a bowl lathe. Is that a shorty? He wants 250 for it and looks decent shape. What do you think?
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

What brand of bowl lathe? Any pics?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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