Drive Belt Issues

csanders · Post by **csanders** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 7:18 pm

Before I read your post (being a dumbass), me and my father used a piece of wood to pry the motor sheeve open via two straight screw drivers 180 degrees from eachother. It was successfully as neither me nor my father were able to open it. We finally got it open and I oiled the inside of the sheeves. I will upload a picture in a second.

csanders · Post by **csanders** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 7:39 pm

Here's the first five. If you need any more angles let me know.

csanders · Post by **csanders** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 7:40 pm

and the last two.

csanders · Post by **csanders** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:04 pm

Just to let you know, I do not mind doing what is necessary to make this machine operational. I would rather do it now than have it broken down the road. I am not familiar with the control arm. I think it is the gear underneath the idler sheeve or near there. Please forgive, I do not have the manual anymore. I've been looking everywhere for it. But, here is what I see: there is a gear that turns from the control dial ( not the gears in the control dial but visible throught acces hole. That gear turns another gear that is connected via a square rod and spring to the shaft of the idler sheeve. High speed pushes it down and low speed pushes it up. Should that shaft be able to push through the bushing on the back end of the headstock? I supplied a picture of the bushing, I do not remember it coming throught the end but with it loosened it seems to want to now. By the way I know not to turn the dial while it is off. By the way, both sheeves are somewhat open now. Is this a giant problem. Have I done something wrong here.

csanders · Post by **csanders** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:24 pm

luckily, the oil hole is not beyond the end and I can access it.

csanders · Post by **csanders** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:38 pm

By the way, I think it is set to fast speed. I wonder if I should put the belt back on and turn the machine on and set it to slow. The problem being that both sheeves are open. I also can not get the motor sheeve to close now. I don not want to mess this thing up. I really don't know which way to take this thing. I guess I will go ahead and oil the idler sheeve. The oil may not run in the right direction though because it is in drill press orientation.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 9:52 pm

Fear Not! All is not as bad as it seems.

The pix are quite informative.

Yes both sheaves are 'stuck'. Not terminal by any means. While yer dad is close by, kick him for not lubricating the beast.

This how it gets even for being neglected!;)

The first pix shows the loop unconnected, but that is good for now(if it were connected, it likely would have been pulled off due to the sticky control sheave(the arm moves but the sheave doesn't pulls the loop off)).

I assume(please tell me if that is incorrect) the speed control has not been moved during all 7 pix.

Assuming that, the speed control indicator dial is 'off'. I say that because the first pix show the speed control arm in fast position.

I appreciate the I will do anything comment. Makes saying the following easier for me. Since the speed indicator dial is 'off', the speed control dial will need to come off eventually anyway. It is removed by accessing a 3/32 hex set screw which can be 'discovered' deep inside a hole in the side of the knob. With it loosened a couple of turns, the knob should pull off. Examine the small gear in the center of the backside. If stripped, the dial miscalibration is found and we can discuss remedies later.

With the knob off the three screws securing the speed control are in view. Note the location and orientation of the leaf spring under the upper right screw. Remove all three screws, but as the control separates from the headstock, notice a small funky shaped spring at 12 o'clock. Capture it before the shop gremlins run off with it.

The speed control should now be 'in hand'. Put all the parts(funky spring, leaf spring, three screws and lockwashers and the speed control and knob in a ziplock bag and set aside for now.

Some pix of the speed control quadrant gear teeth will be needed eventually.

With the extra hole, an additional pry fulcrum point is available.

Oh! Re the idler bearing moving out the rear, I would expect that with a stuck control sheave.

Hokay it is now time to proceed with the control sheave 'loosening' as described in the earlier post. With the speed control stuff out of the way you can concentrate on getting the sheave to move towards the internal end of the shaft, however occasional back/forth movement may help that.

As for being dumbasses, as you shall see when we move on to the motor shaft, what you did will be ' suggested'.

csanders · Post by **csanders** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:15 pm

Ok, I put it all back together. The speed dial would only turn one 360 degree turn as far as the dial not the indicator. So, I took the control dial off and one of the screw was preventing the dial from turning by being unscrewed too far. I had lost it's threading so I put a split washer and a nut on it inside the headstock and it is tight now. I turned the machine back on and it operates as it should. I will do as suggested and oil the control 10-15 drops. Is there anything else I should do and would you suggest a new belt. My father told me that he never oiled the ss. He didn't know he was supposed to. I wish the vibration was less and wonder if a new belt could help?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:18 pm

P.S. With the sheaves stuck do NOT replace the belt and run the motor. Adjusting the speed control has NO effect with the sheaves stuck.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:24 pm

csanders wrote:Ok, I put it all back together. The speed dial would only turn one 360 degree turn as far as the dial not the indicator. So, I took the control dial off and one of the screw was preventing the dial from turning by being unscrewed too far. I had lost it's threading so I put a split washer and a nut on it inside the headstock and it is tight now. I turned the machine back on and it operates as it should. I will do as suggested and oil the control 10-15 drops. Is there anything else I should do and would you suggest a new belt. My father told me that he never oiled the ss. He didn't know he was supposed to. I wish the vibration was less and wonder if a new belt could help?

I would suggest nothing until both sheaves are moving VEEERY freeeely. The stuck sheaves will limit the control function.

The pix last posted do not show sheaves that would operate 'normally'.

You are seeking a quick solution where a long term prevention procedure is needed.

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