Carriage tightening

[csanders]

The carriage on my shopsmith Mark V 500 was functioning properly as of recent, but then I noticed that the handle to tighten and loosen will not turn unless forced, but I don't want to do that. It is naturally in a loosened state, but I can't get it to move. Is there a way to take it apart. I see what looks like a very small allen screw, but I can't seem to find an allen wrench that fits. It is extremely small. Not 5/32 as I would suspect. It feels as if something is obstructing it. Any help on how to disassemble it would really help me. Thanks.

[twoblocked]

The carriage on my shopsmith Mark V 500 was functioning properly as of recent, but then I noticed that the handle to tighten and loosen will not turn unless forced, but I don't want to do that. It is naturally in a loosened state, but I can't get it to move. Is there a way to take it apart. I see what looks like a very small allen screw, but I can't seem to find an allen wrench that fits. It is extremely small. Not 5/32 as I would suspect. It feels as if something is obstructing it. Any help on how to disassemble it would really help me. Thanks.

I don't have my SS in front of me. What you think is an allen screw is probably a rolled pin, but I don't think that is where your problem is, nor does the handle need to be taken off the shaft.

On the other end of the shaft there is a nut. Take that nut off and the shaft will slide out with the handle attached, and the other parts that lock the carriage to the way tubes will come free. Keep them in order. Clean and inspect them, remove any burrs, reassemble and adjust how tight it locks with the nut.

Like I said, I don't have my SS in front of me. Hope this helps.

[JPG]

Ain't no nut on the end of a 500 carriage lock.

The lock is identical to the headstock lock.

Yes that is a tension(roll) pin securing the wing knob to the threaded shaft(left handed thread).

The likely(happens often) cause of stiffness is the threads have become crudded up and are binding.

The wedge is soft compared to the threaded rod, so a small piece of wedge may have broken off and gotten jammed.

Fortunately the carriage allows easy accessed to the parts.

I would try penetrating oil on both ends of both wedges and an overnight seep time.

Then if unsuccessful, disassembly etc.

[twoblocked]

Ain't no nut on the end of a 500 carriage lock.

The lock is identical to the headstock lock.

Yes that is a tension(roll) pin securing the wing knob to the threaded shaft(left handed thread).

The likely(happens often) cause of stiffness is the threads have become crudded up and are binding.

The wedge is soft compared to the threaded rod, so a small piece of wedge may have broken off and gotten jammed.

Fortunately the carriage allows easy accessed to the parts.

I would try penetrating oil on both ends of both wedges and an overnight seep time.

Then if unsuccessful, disassembly etc.

Ah, I guess you are right. The 500 is different. Here is the exploded view:



Still, I don't see what good removing the rolled pin and handle will do. Part 160 must have left and right threads in order to tighten the locks. It isn't a huge job to remove the head stock and carriage if the jam cannot be found otherwise. Then the locks should be free to spin and find the trouble.

[JPG]

Ah, I guess you are right. The 500 is different. Here is the exploded view:



Still, I don't see what good removing the rolled pin and handle will do. Part 160 must have left and right threads in order to tighten the locks. It isn't a huge job to remove the head stock and carriage if the jam cannot be found otherwise. Then the locks should be free to spin and find the trouble.

Yep! 'normal' threads at the rear, 'reversed' threads at the front.

Truth be told, removing that pin is the most difficult part.

Then the headstock and finally the carriage(hopefully the wedges are not squeezing the way tube).

All that is a lot of work.


Notice I said soak over night before 'disassembly.

[dgale]

The wedges are aluminum and the shaft is steel, so when things bind and/or get forced, the threads aluminum wedges will cross thread and/or get stripped. Hopefully it's not quite gotten to that point but but definitely don't force it or it will (ask me how I know...). As for the rolled pin, you need to remove it to get the handle off, which is required to in turn get the wedge at that end off (part #161 in diagram). This will then allow you to slide the remaining assembly out the opposite end of the carriage. Perhaps you can remedy things without a complete removal but in all likelihood you will want to take it all apart, inspect everything, replace any wedges that are stripped, and reassemble. This will require removing the carriage from the way tubes and removing the rolled pin and handle as mentioned. Removing the rolled pin is easy if you have the correct size pin punch - just make sure you place some sort of container below it to catch the pin, as they disappear easily when they hit the ground. I'm pretty sure 1/8" is the correct size pin punch - you don't want to use too small of a punch or you may actually drive it inside the pin, wedging it larger and making your task more difficult. Here's a thread that discusses this very topic:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=11839

[csanders]

Ya, I was getting ready to send a message to say that there is no nut. Didn't want to contradict though. It looks like you have said to be a wing handle with a pin. A wedge on the handle side that screws through the shaft with another wedge on the other side. You say that the threading is different on either side, huh. I will try the penetrating oil. How would I take the pin out if need be. And would that be the first step. Thanks you guys are awesome. This is info I could not find anywhere, but obviously a diagram does exist. Thanks again.

[csanders]

That did the trick. Amazing what you learn on here. Graphite powder, Johnson's Paste Wax, and Penetrating oil. I guess it's not all that exotic but I wouldn't have thought of it on my own.

[JPG]

Re: 'contradiction'. There are different versions of various 'stuff' and not all folks on this forum are aware of all versions, so sometimes honest mis directions occur.

So when the directions contradict what one sees, a question regarding the difference is not only reasonable, but prudent. That is not being 'contrary'.

To allow mis information to propagate is when real problems develop.

Notice I said 'honest'. The intentions were honorable.

Glad ya back to some resemblance of normal!:)