dusty wrote:If the bolt moves during normal operation, loctite might do the trick. Mine don't move so I don't know for sure. I would suggest just a little loctite.
JPG: Are your stop bolts really long enough to use jam nuts?
I am assuming(still) that it is the stop screws in the trunion segment that we are discussing,.
The 10E had jam nuts when I acquired it.
The Goldie and Mark VII are long enough.(as is a Greenie table I have)
Gonna go look at the 510.
Ahhhh, now I 'see' the problem. Only one trunion stop screw. short to be sure, but room enough for a 'thin' jam nut.(Much courser thread pitch BTW - older models use 32 pitch screws)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Well on further investigation, for adjusting the table stops, there are 5 bolts in question:
2 for the 45 degree stop for the saw
2 for the 90 degree stop for the drill press
1 for the 90 degree stop for the saw.
4 of the five i could remove without the use of any tools, one of the 45 degree saw stop bolts was very tight. It appears the method used by Shopsmith to give these bolts some tension is to hit the threads with a hammer, crude; but i suppose effective if done properly. Still sort of disappointing in a machine that cost $3,979.00 plus shipping.
The proper Locktite color is purple for set screws; but on a Sunday, I could not find that, so the next in line is blue.
I have applied the blue and made the adjustments, i will report back with the results.
Jack
SS Mark 7 PowerPro, 2 SS Bandsaws, SS Belt Sander, SS Jigsaw, 13" Steel City Lunch Box Planer, SS Jointer, Jet 22-44 Drum Sander
Well I went and took another look at my 510(early version) table.(my lack of experience with the 510 is being exposed here!;)).
Discovered all 5 screws were tight. Took one out and it has what appears to be wood glue(type/brand indeterminate) on the threads. FWIW, it works very well.
So I conclude this be a long standing problem.
Sure the screw threads were smushed with a hammer? There is a 'self locking' screw that intentionally has the threads 'mis formed'. Usually 'flattened' on three positions around the shank.
Purple? That be a new one! Just mix half and half red and blue!:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
[quote="Jack Wilson"]Well on further investigation, for adjusting the table stops, there are 5 bolts in question:
2 for the 45 degree stop for the saw
2 for the 90 degree stop for the drill press
1 for the 90 degree stop for the saw.
4 of the five i could remove without the use of any tools, one of the 45 degree saw stop bolts was very tight. It appears the method used by Shopsmith to give these bolts some tension is to hit the threads with a hammer, crude]
I don't believe that hammering on the threads is a recommended method. I also doubt that Shopsmith has done that; at least not deliberately.
I believe you will find the loctite to be quite satisfactory.
This is an example of the many instances when I wish Shopsmith Engineering would weigh in on the subject.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Researched 'purple' locktite. Nothing found on locktite site, but there be green locktite there(applied after tightening - needs heat like red to disassemble).
I have only seen the red and the blue locally.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The purple was listed on the back of the package the blue came in. I had never heard of it myself.
As far as Shopsmith not hammering the threads, four of the five were for sure done, the fifth was tight so I did not take it out. The machine is only days old. Don't know how else to explain the threads being hammered.
SS Mark 7 PowerPro, 2 SS Bandsaws, SS Belt Sander, SS Jigsaw, 13" Steel City Lunch Box Planer, SS Jointer, Jet 22-44 Drum Sander
Jack Wilson wrote:The purple was listed on the back of the package the blue came in. I had never heard of it myself.
As far as Shopsmith not hammering the threads, four of the five were for sure done, the fifth was tight so I did not take it out. The machine is only days old. Don't know how else to explain the threads being hammered.
I have since discovered that the back of the main table has a 0.012 to 0.014 high spot in the center of back edge, so I will be calling. I will mention the bolts at that time.
How could you possibly align the machine and not notice that?
SS Mark 7 PowerPro, 2 SS Bandsaws, SS Belt Sander, SS Jigsaw, 13" Steel City Lunch Box Planer, SS Jointer, Jet 22-44 Drum Sander
Jack Wilson wrote:I have since discovered that the back of the main table has a 0.012 to 0.014 high spot in the center of back edge, so I will be calling. I will mention the bolts at that time.
How could you possibly align the machine and not notice that?
You might want to read this regarding table flastness before you call.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
In some of the SS help kits there were some set screws that had a red substance on the threads. I was working in industry at the time and I contacted the Loctite engineering reps because I could not find info on the product. I was told that the product was indeed a Loctite product but that when it was applied the components had to be heated in order for the product to cure, so it was not something that a home hobbyist or craftspeople could use.
When I wanted to semi secure a screw I put a small amount of RTV on the threads and let it cure and then install the bolt. It is not a permanent cure if the bolt will be adjusted often but it does prevent vibration from loosening the bolt. (Jam nuts are the best cure if they fit)
Bill V
